Used Renault Clio (X85 / RS & Sport) review

Exterior:

• If you’re looking at one of these in a colder climate or coastal area, give the boot lid a really good look, especially along the bottom edge of the rear window, rust has been known to hide there.
• And while you’re at the back of the car, if the tailgate rattles, which quite a few can, it’s more than likely just a misaligned boot latch. Easy fix, and there are some excellent step-by-step tutorials floating around the owner forums and groups.
• It’s also worth mentioning, a lot of owners have reported the front bumper never quite lining up properly, particularly around the sides, and in general the panel gaps all over the car can be pretty inconsistent.
• Make absolutely sure both of the ignition cards work perfectly. If they don’t, Renault’s replacement costs are eye-watering. Some can set owners back over $600, for owners, they have been quoted upwards of $400, just for a key.
• Next, check that the scuttle drain holes (just below the windscreen) aren’t blocked. Best way to test this is to pour some water on the screen and make sure it drains out cleanly. If it doesn’t, that water can sneak into the cabin and wreak havoc.
• If those drains are blocked, they can also flood the wiper motor, and speaking of wipers, many owners report that the linkage bearings or mechanism can wear out. If the wipers move slowly even on full speed, or they judder and struggle, chances are something’s going wrong.
• Ignore it for too long and you could fry the wiper motor entirely, which means instead of just spending $300–$400 on a new mechanism, you’ll be forking out for a motor as well.

Interior:

• It’s a French hot hatch, so expect hard plastics, and under the Aussie sun, they can turn brittle over time. The result? A symphony of squeaks and rattles throughout the cabin, and even the door pulls can get noisy.
• One common annoyance is the glove box lid. Not only does it often sit skew-whiff, but the hinge pivots wear out and it just gives up entirely.
• The leather steering wheels are notorious for peeling and wearing out. Luckily, it’s an easy fix with a re-trim. Same goes for the seat bolsters, especially on the optional Recaros, they wear through quickly, but an upholsterer can sort that out without too much fuss.
• Owners of earlier examples have also reported air-con condensers failing, but good news, they’re not crazy expensive, usually around the $300 mark.
• If the heater controls are acting up, it might be a worn final stage resistor. It’s a cheap part, but replacing it can be a bit of a pain. Again, jump into the owners’ groups, they’ve done the legwork already.
• Around the back, the rear seat latches are another known rattle zone, but again, easy fix. There are plenty of guides online to help reposition the latch so it sits snug in the catch and doesn’t annoy the hell out of you.

Mechanically:

• If it’s been neglected, one of the first things to check is the auxiliary belt (fan belt) and tensioner. If the tensioner goes, the belt can shred itself, get caught in the crank pulley, slip under the timing cover, and ruin the timing belt , and if that goes, the engine’s toast. You’ll usually hear the tensioner rattling or the bearing screaming before it fails though, so keep an ear out.
• The timing belt is critical, it’s due every four years or 90,000 km, and it must be done. No exceptions.
• Water pump leaks are fairly common too, so it’s best to do that with the timing belt. It’s not worse than other European cars, but worth doing right.
• While you’re in there, check and replace the cam seals, they’re known for leaking and often get overlooked. Rocker cover gaskets can leak too, and the thermostats are also a known weak point. The original ones are plastic, but aftermarket aluminium replacements are available and far more durable, absolutely worth upgrading to.
• Then there’s the infamous VVT dephaser pulley. It’s a hydraulically actuated inlet cam phaser, and when the internal oil galleries wear, they start to rattle like a diesel engine once the oil’s hot. You might notice a lumpy idle or flat spots. If the locking pin inside fails, it can throw off valve timing. It’s not super common and usually only happens on poorly serviced cars.
• Some cars burn a bit of oil, again, not unheard of in high-revving naturally aspirated engines, but regular servicing helps.
• Coil packs can fail, but no worse than in similar cars, and if the engine cranks but refuses to start when hot, then fires up once it’s cooled, the crank sensor is likely the culprit.
• Bottom-end wise, these engines are tough as nails. Most failures trace back to skipped servicing or worn ancillaries. Keep clean oil in it, treat the belts and dephaser as consumables, and it’ll do 250,000 km without needing to open up the engine.

Transmission:

• Day to day, the gearbox is fine. But push it hard or treat it rough, and it starts to show its weaknesses. Second and third gear synchros are often claimed to be a problem, though a lot of that comes down to clumsy shifting.
• The selector linkages also wear out and can feel sloppy. Renault considers the gearbox is “filled for life” , we doubt that very mush. Change the oil every 40,000 km.
• If not serviced properly, the layshaft bearings can wear prematurely.

Driving:

• When test driving, listen for any whining or clunking as you steer. Turn the wheel from lock to lock while stationary or at crawling pace. If you hear anything odd, it could be the steering rack, they cost about $1000 from Renault.
• These racks can be rebuilt too, and the most common fault is play on the left-hand side. This can usually be fixed by reconditioning and adjusting the pinion backlash, gets it feeling tight again.
• Steering link rods tend to wear out, and while they’re cheap to fix, it’s crucial to confirm it’s not the power steering motor instead, those are part of the upper column and cost nearly $2000 to replace.
• If you’re hearing knocks or clunks up front and no one seems to know why, the shocks might be moving around due to worn components. But the most common culprit? The lower hub pivot joint, they’re the same as on the Megane III, and they wear out constantly. Anti-rotation links can also cop damage and contribute to the noise.
• Ball joints and swivel hubs are another weak spot. If the steering feels vague, or the suspension feels nervous or unsettled, those could be the issue.
• And don’t forget the top mounts, they crack and perish over time and can make all sorts of weird noises.
• And finally, don’t ruin the driving experience with rubbish tyres. They make a huge difference on a chassis this good.