Likes
- Currently offering so much car for the money.
- Truly wonderful driving experience.
- Actually showing quite good reliability.
- Could it be a future classic?
Used Porsche Boxster (986) review
1996 - 2004
Dislikes
- IMS failures and bore scoring issues raise concerns.
- Porsche parts and labour costs.
- The looks still divide opinion.
- It’s still a 25 year old car, and can feel it.
Stuff you should know
If you’ve ever dreamt of owning a proper mid-engined, rear-wheel-drive Porsche but thought the price of entry into the brand was always out of reach, meet the 986 Boxster, the first-generation of what would become one of Porsche’s most important models. Introduced to the Australian market in the late 1990s, the 986 wasn’t just Porsche’s entry-level offering, it was the car that quite literally helped save the company. And now, more than two decades on, it might just be one of the most tempting bargains in the used performance car world.
At launch, the 986 Boxster came with a 2.5-litre flat-six engine mounted behind the seats, a true boxer engine, hence the name. This was later bumped to 2.7-litres in 2000 as part of a mid-cycle refresh, alongside the introduction of the more focused Boxster S which got a 3.2-litre flat-six. These naturally aspirated engines are classic Porsche, hard revving, characterful and surprisingly robust when looked after. Transmissions-wise, buyers could opt for a five-speed manual, a six-speed manual in the S, or a five-speed Tiptronic automatic, which, while a bit old-school now, does offer an easygoing driving experience if you’re after more of a cruiser than a canyon carver.
That 2000 update brought more than just engine tweaks, the interior got a minor refresh with slightly improved materials, the plastic rear window was replaced with glass (finally), and the exterior saw subtle nips and tucks, although the Boxster’s look has always divided opinion. From certain angles it’s a bit frog-like, but there’s no denying it’s aged better than some of its rivals, and in the right spec and colour, it can still turn heads. It might not scream supercar, but it whispers sophistication.
Trim-wise, the early cars were fairly simple, but Porsche being Porsche, there were plenty of options, leather seats, upgraded stereos, cruise control, and climate control among them. The Boxster S added a bit more sporting flair with bigger brakes, revised suspension, and dual exhausts. Later models in the 986’s lifecycle benefited from things like improved cabin ergonomics, better sound systems, and slightly more modern tech, although by modern standards, don’t expect anything cutting edge.
Where does the Boxster sit in the market now? Well, originally it was positioned below the 911 as a more accessible entry into Porsche ownership, and it still holds that place in the brand’s hierarchy. But on the used market, the 986 is now mixing it with the likes of older BMW Z4s, Audi TTs, and even the occasional Honda S2000 and Mazda MX-5, all brilliant cars in their own right, but few offer the same blend of balance, handling purity, and that iconic Porsche badge. For the money, the Boxster offers a driving experience that’s hard to beat, especially if you’re after something that feels genuinely special without totally ruining your bank account.
And let’s not forget, this is the original Boxster, the one that started it all. That means there’s real potential for it to become a future classic, especially clean, well-optioned, manual examples. It’s already getting attention from enthusiasts, and values for the best examples are starting to creep up. Add to that the fascinating fact that Toyota. yes, Toyota, was heavily involved in aspects of the Boxster’s production planning and efficiency improvements during Porsche’s financial struggles in the ’90s, and you’ve got yourself a car with a genuinely interesting backstory.
But it’s not all sunshine and twisty roads, it is, after all, a 25-year-old Porsche. Parts can be pricey, labour even more so, and there are a few known issues that crop up, and we go through them in detail in our “what goes wrong” section below. So yes, the original Boxster might be tempting, but you do need to know what you might be getting yourself into.
What goes wrong
Exterior Issues:
- If you’re looking at a pre-2003 Boxster, just be aware that the rear window is made of plastic and it’s pretty common for these to go hazy, fade or even crack over time. From 2003 onwards though, Porsche swapped it out for a proper glass unit, and it’s been far less of a headache since.
- While you’re there, give the condition of the roof a really good check over. Any rips or tears can end up being properly expensive to fix. A brand-new replacement roof from Porsche? That’ll set you back thousands.
- Another thing to listen out for is a popping sound when the roof is lowering, that could mean it’s slipping out of alignment. If you do hear any weird noises when it’s opening or closing, don’t keep testing it. Stop, and get it sorted ASAP. If you don’t, you could be looking at some far more serious, and expensive, repairs.
- Some of the older roof mechanisms can’t actually be serviced, if they’re the original parts, you’ll be forced to upgrade to the newer system. And yes, again, it’s not cheap.
- Critically, check behind the seats for any signs of water leaks. The rear roof drains can get blocked with leaves and debris and that means water can overflow into the cabin, right into the spot where Porsche thought it’d be a good idea to put some of the car’s electronic control units. Keeping those drains clear is easy, but forget to do it and the results can be both costly and seriously frustrating.
- Also, have a look inside the boot for signs of moisture. If the carpets feel damp or smell a bit off, it could be due to a cracked coolant tank. These are plastic and can fail over time. Best practice is to replace it every 8 to 10 years, or as soon as you spot any leaks. Updated tanks are a bit more robust.
- Watch the windows when opening and closing the doors. They’re meant to drop slightly then rise back up again, if they don’t, it could be a faulty microswitch, which is a known issue.
- Up front, the air intakes in the lower bumper are notorious for collecting leaves and gunk, which can build up and lead to corrosion of the radiators or A/C condenser. It’s simple enough to clear, but if left, it can become a bigger job.
- Finally, while Boxsters aren’t known to rust, any signs of corrosion, mismatched paint or poor panel gap alignment could point to dodgy repairs. So be thorough.
Interior Issues:
- Considering its age, the interior of the 986 Boxster
Exterior Issues:
- If you’re looking at a pre-2003 Boxster, just be aware that the rear window is made of plastic and it’s pretty common for these to go hazy, fade or even crack over time. From 2003 onwards though, Porsche swapped it out for a proper glass unit, and it’s been far less of a headache since.
- While you’re there, give the condition of the roof a really good check over. Any rips or tears can end up being properly expensive to fix. A brand-new replacement roof from Porsche? That’ll set you back thousands.
- Another thing to listen out for is a popping sound when the roof is lowering, that could mean it’s slipping out of alignment. If you do hear any weird noises when it’s opening or closing, don’t keep testing it. Stop, and get it sorted ASAP. If you don’t, you could be looking at some far more serious, and expensive, repairs.
- Some of the older roof mechanisms can’t actually be serviced, if they’re the original parts, you’ll be forced to upgrade to the newer system. And yes, again, it’s not cheap.
- Critically, check behind the seats for any signs of water leaks. The rear roof drains can get blocked with leaves and debris and that means water can overflow into the cabin, right into the spot where Porsche thought it’d be a good idea to put some of the car’s electronic control units. Keeping those drains clear is easy, but forget to do it and the results can be both costly and seriously frustrating.
- Also, have a look inside the boot for signs of moisture. If the carpets feel damp or smell a bit off, it could be due to a cracked coolant tank. These are plastic and can fail over time. Best practice is to replace it every 8 to 10 years, or as soon as you spot any leaks. Updated tanks are a bit more robust.
- Watch the windows when opening and closing the doors. They’re meant to drop slightly then rise back up again, if they don’t, it could be a faulty microswitch, which is a known issue.
- Up front, the air intakes in the lower bumper are notorious for collecting leaves and gunk, which can build up and lead to corrosion of the radiators or A/C condenser. It’s simple enough to clear, but if left, it can become a bigger job.
- Finally, while Boxsters aren’t known to rust, any signs of corrosion, mismatched paint or poor panel gap alignment could point to dodgy repairs. So be thorough.
Interior Issues:
- Considering its age, the interior of the 986 Boxster holds up remarkably well, owners consistently praise its durability.
- That said, the infotainment systems are well and truly showing their age. Compared to even a basic modern setup, they’re not great. But the good news is, upgrades are pretty easy to do, and Porsche even offers its own retro-fit options. Just keep in mind, some owners reckon the official system is a bit underwhelming for the price, so definitely do your research first.
- Interior materials are very early-2000s. Lots of plastics, which, in some cars, haven’t aged all that gracefully. They can become brittle over time and start to rattle — worst case, bits can actually snap off. Not ideal.
Mechanically:
- Mechanically, the 986 Boxster can be a brilliant thing, but it’s not without its quirks, and a few potential wallet-drainers.
- One common issue is failure of the Air-Oil Separator (AOS). This little component helps regulate the air and oil mix inside the engine, but when it fails, it can lead to white smoke pouring out the exhaust.
- Water pumps on these can also be a problem. The original plastic impellers wear down or break, leading to overheating or coolant loss. Thermostats can stick as well, so they’re worth replacing with the pump every 100,000 kms. If you can, go for a pump with a metal impeller.
- A cold start rattle could be a timing chain tensioner issue, totally expected in cars of this age, but still worth investigating. Also, if it won’t start when hot, suspect the crankshaft position sensor.
- Ignition coils and spark plugs are no worse than any other car of this age, and if they’re not causing issues, don’t stress too much.
- IMS bearing failure, the infamous internet boogeyman. Yes, it’s a real issue, but maybe not as apocalyptic as people make out. Early 2.5-litre cars (1997–1999) have a stronger dual-row bearing and show failure rates of under 1%. The 2000–2001 models with the 2.7 and 3.2-litre engines use the weaker single-row bearing, with up to an 8% failure rate. Worst case, 2002–2004 models see up to 10% failure. So 90% of cars are actually fine — and many of those that did fail will have already been sorted by now.
- Rear main seal (RMS) leaks? Pretty common, but they’re more of a messy annoyance than anything truly dangerous.
- Cylinder bore scoring is another serious one, mostly affecting the 3.2-litre S and some 2.7s. Again, the early 2.5 is the least affected. The numbers? About 3% for the 2.7 and around 8% of 3.2-litre engines may have issues. That means there’s a 92% chance your 3.2 is absolutely fine.
- Hot tip: These engines like to be driven hard. Many experts consider spirited driving helps better distribute oil inside the engine, which can actually help prevent some of these issues.
Transmission and Clutch:
- The manual gearbox is generally solid. A few owners report a bit of notchiness going into second or third gear when cold, and worn cables or bushings can make shifts feel a bit vague.
- Tiptronic autos can suffer from typical auto trans problems, harsh or delayed shifting, valve body or solenoid issues, but nothing out of the ordinary for a car this old. Keeping up with servicing is crucial here, and make sure genuine ZF Lifeguard oil is used.
- Just keep in mind, when it comes to repairs, this is where things can get a bit frustrating. It’s not that the parts themselves are outrageously expensive, but rather the way the Boxster is packaged makes access a bit of a nightmare. You’ve got to get the roof into its service position, pull out carpet and trim panels, remove covers, and sometimes even go in through the front just to do basic jobs like replacing a belt tensioner or alternator. Changing air filters? That’s a full boot strip-down. Fun.
Driving Issues:
- If the suspension’s making squeaky or rattly noises, it’s probably the bushes starting to wear out. The good news is, refreshing the suspension can totally transform the way these drive, it’s well worth doing.
Model History:
- The original Boxster (1997 model year) came with a 2.5-litre water-cooled flat-six making 152kW (204hp), mated to either a 5-speed manual or 5-speed Tiptronic auto. These first cars were built in Stuttgart.
- By 1999, production had moved to the Valmet factory in Finland, so check the 11th digit of the VIN — ‘U’ means Finland, ‘S’ is Stuttgart.
- In 2000, the base model was upgraded to a 2.7-litre engine with 164kW (220hp) and an electronic throttle. The Boxster S also launched this year with a 3.2-litre engine pushing out 188kW (252hp), and came with a 6-speed manual. The S got a double-skin roof and side-impact protection (POSIP), which the 2.7 picked up a year later.
- 2003 brought a power bump to 170kW (228hp) for the base model and 191kW (260hp) for the S. This year also saw the facelift with a new front bar, rear spoiler, clear indicators, and the all-important glass rear window. The S gained a new gearbox and new wheels.
- In 2004, Porsche released a special ’50 Years of the 550 Spyder’ edition based on the Boxster S with 199kW (266hp) and finished in GT Silver.
- By 2005, the 986 was replaced with the all-new 987 — which was 80% new underneath.
Exterior Issues:
- If you’re looking at a pre-2003 Boxster, just be aware that the rear window is made of plastic and it’s pretty common for these to go hazy, fade or even crack over time. From 2003 onwards though, Porsche swapped it out for a proper glass unit, and it’s been far less of a headache since.
- While you’re there, give the condition of the roof a really good check over. Any rips or tears can end up being properly expensive to fix. A brand-new replacement roof from Porsche? That’ll set you back thousands.
- Another thing to listen out for is a popping sound when the roof is lowering, that could mean it’s slipping out of alignment. If you do hear any weird noises when it’s opening or closing, don’t keep testing it. Stop, and get it sorted ASAP. If you don’t, you could be looking at some far more serious, and expensive, repairs.
- Some of the older roof mechanisms can’t actually be serviced, if they’re the original parts, you’ll be forced to upgrade to the newer system. And yes, again, it’s not cheap.
- Critically, check behind the seats for any signs of water leaks. The rear roof drains can get blocked with leaves and debris and that means water can overflow into the cabin, right into the spot where Porsche thought it’d be a good idea to put some of the car’s electronic control units. Keeping those drains clear is easy, but forget to do it and the results can be both costly and seriously frustrating.
- Also, have a look inside the boot for signs of moisture. If the carpets feel damp or smell a bit off, it could be due to a cracked coolant tank. These are plastic and can fail over time. Best practice is to replace it every 8 to 10 years, or as soon as you spot any leaks. Updated tanks are a bit more robust.
- Watch the windows when opening and closing the doors. They’re meant to drop slightly then rise back up again, if they don’t, it could be a faulty microswitch, which is a known issue.
- Up front, the air intakes in the lower bumper are notorious for collecting leaves and gunk, which can build up and lead to corrosion of the radiators or A/C condenser. It’s simple enough to clear, but if left, it can become a bigger job.
- Finally, while Boxsters aren’t known to rust, any signs of corrosion, mismatched paint or poor panel gap alignment could point to dodgy repairs. So be thorough.
Interior Issues:
- Considering its age, the interior of the 986 Boxster holds up remarkably well, owners consistently praise its durability.
- That said, the infotainment systems are well and truly showing their age. Compared to even a basic modern setup, they’re not great. But the good news is, upgrades are pretty easy to do, and Porsche even offers its own retro-fit options. Just keep in mind, some owners reckon the official system is a bit underwhelming for the price, so definitely do your research first.
- Interior materials are very early-2000s. Lots of plastics, which, in some cars, haven’t aged all that gracefully. They can become brittle over time and start to rattle — worst case, bits can actually snap off. Not ideal.
Mechanically:
- Mechanically, the 986 Boxster can be a brilliant thing, but it’s not without its quirks, and a few potential wallet-drainers.
- One common issue is failure of the Air-Oil Separator (AOS). This little component helps regulate the air and oil mix inside the engine, but when it fails, it can lead to white smoke pouring out the exhaust.
- Water pumps on these can also be a problem. The original plastic impellers wear down or break, leading to overheating or coolant loss. Thermostats can stick as well, so they’re worth replacing with the pump every 100,000 kms. If you can, go for a pump with a metal impeller.
- A cold start rattle could be a timing chain tensioner issue, totally expected in cars of this age, but still worth investigating. Also, if it won’t start when hot, suspect the crankshaft position sensor.
- Ignition coils and spark plugs are no worse than any other car of this age, and if they’re not causing issues, don’t stress too much.
- IMS bearing failure, the infamous internet boogeyman. Yes, it’s a real issue, but maybe not as apocalyptic as people make out. Early 2.5-litre cars (1997–1999) have a stronger dual-row bearing and show failure rates of under 1%. The 2000–2001 models with the 2.7 and 3.2-litre engines use the weaker single-row bearing, with up to an 8% failure rate. Worst case, 2002–2004 models see up to 10% failure. So 90% of cars are actually fine — and many of those that did fail will have already been sorted by now.
- Rear main seal (RMS) leaks? Pretty common, but they’re more of a messy annoyance than anything truly dangerous.
- Cylinder bore scoring is another serious one, mostly affecting the 3.2-litre S and some 2.7s. Again, the early 2.5 is the least affected. The numbers? About 3% for the 2.7 and around 8% of 3.2-litre engines may have issues. That means there’s a 92% chance your 3.2 is absolutely fine.
- Hot tip: These engines like to be driven hard. Many experts consider spirited driving helps better distribute oil inside the engine, which can actually help prevent some of these issues.
Transmission and Clutch:
- The manual gearbox is generally solid. A few owners report a bit of notchiness going into second or third gear when cold, and worn cables or bushings can make shifts feel a bit vague.
- Tiptronic autos can suffer from typical auto trans problems, harsh or delayed shifting, valve body or solenoid issues, but nothing out of the ordinary for a car this old. Keeping up with servicing is crucial here, and make sure genuine ZF Lifeguard oil is used.
- Just keep in mind, when it comes to repairs, this is where things can get a bit frustrating. It’s not that the parts themselves are outrageously expensive, but rather the way the Boxster is packaged makes access a bit of a nightmare. You’ve got to get the roof into its service position, pull out carpet and trim panels, remove covers, and sometimes even go in through the front just to do basic jobs like replacing a belt tensioner or alternator. Changing air filters? That’s a full boot strip-down. Fun.
Driving Issues:
- If the suspension’s making squeaky or rattly noises, it’s probably the bushes starting to wear out. The good news is, refreshing the suspension can totally transform the way these drive, it’s well worth doing.
Model History:
- The original Boxster (1997 model year) came with a 2.5-litre water-cooled flat-six making 152kW (204hp), mated to either a 5-speed manual or 5-speed Tiptronic auto. These first cars were built in Stuttgart.
- By 1999, production had moved to the Valmet factory in Finland, so check the 11th digit of the VIN — ‘U’ means Finland, ‘S’ is Stuttgart.
- In 2000, the base model was upgraded to a 2.7-litre engine with 164kW (220hp) and an electronic throttle. The Boxster S also launched this year with a 3.2-litre engine pushing out 188kW (252hp), and came with a 6-speed manual. The S got a double-skin roof and side-impact protection (POSIP), which the 2.7 picked up a year later.
- 2003 brought a power bump to 170kW (228hp) for the base model and 191kW (260hp) for the S. This year also saw the facelift with a new front bar, rear spoiler, clear indicators, and the all-important glass rear window. The S gained a new gearbox and new wheels.
- In 2004, Porsche released a special ’50 Years of the 550 Spyder’ edition based on the Boxster S with 199kW (266hp) and finished in GT Silver.
- By 2005, the 986 was replaced with the all-new 987 — which was 80% new underneath.
Should you buy one?
You might be surprised to hear this, after all, we are talking about a 25-year-old Porsche, but honestly, we reckon you should absolutely consider buying one.
Obviously that’s only if you find an example with a properly documented and meticulous maintenance history, make sure it ticks every box in a thorough pre-purchase inspection, and you’re in a financially comfortable enough position to absorb a potential hit if something major goes wrong.
But if you’ve done all that, and you approach ownership with the mindset that a $25,000 Boxster is actually a $35,000 Boxster, you just haven’t spent that other $10,000 yet, then this really is all the Porsche you’d ever realistically need. Actually, it’s all the drop-top performance car anyone would realistically need.
You might be surprised to hear this, after all, we are talking about a 25-year-old Porsche, but honestly, we reckon you should absolutely consider buying one.
Obviously that’s only if you find an example with a properly documented and meticulous maintenance history, make sure it ticks every box in a thorough pre-purchase inspection, and you’re in a financially comfortable enough position to absorb a potential hit if something major goes wrong.
But if you’ve done all that, and you approach ownership with the mindset that a $25,000 Boxster is actually a $35,000 Boxster, you just haven’t spent that other $10,000 yet, then this really is all the Porsche you’d ever realistically need. Actually, it’s all the drop-top performance car anyone would realistically need.
Should you buy one?
You might be surprised to hear this, after all, we are talking about a 25-year-old Porsche, but honestly, we reckon you should absolutely consider buying one.
Obviously that’s only if you find an example with a properly documented and meticulous maintenance history, make sure it ticks every box in a thorough pre-purchase inspection, and you’re in a financially comfortable enough position to absorb a potential hit if something major goes wrong.
But if you’ve done all that, and you approach ownership with the mindset that a $25,000 Boxster is actually a $35,000 Boxster, you just haven’t spent that other $10,000 yet, then this really is all the Porsche you’d ever realistically need. Actually, it’s all the drop-top performance car anyone would realistically need.
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Disclaimer
Please note that pricing information is subject to fluctuations in the automotive market.
Information correct as of May 23, 2025.
The advice provided on this website is general advice only. It has been prepared without taking into account your objectives, financial situation or needs. Before acting on this advice, you should consider the appropriateness of the advice, having regard to your own objectives, financial situation and needs.
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