Likes
- Excellent driving experience.
- Ticks all the (subjective) premium SUV boxes.
- Huge range of models and options.
- Depreciation means used models offer great value for money.
Used BMW X5 (G05) review
Dislikes
- Terrifying list of commonly reported issues.
- Depreciation doesn’t stop.
- Parts, maintenance and servicing costs ask premiums.
- Very risky long term prospect.
Stuff you should know
The G05 BMW X5 and its coupe-styled sibling, the G06 X6, arrived in Australia in late 2018 and 2019 respectively, slotting into BMW’s line-up as the brand’s large luxury SUVs, positioned above the X3/X4 and just below the flagship X7. Both models share the same platform and mechanical package, with the key difference being the more traditional SUV design of the X5 compared with the sportier, lower-roofed silhouette of the X6. From launch they were pitched directly against some of the biggest names in the luxury SUV market: the Audi Q7 and Q8, Mercedes-Benz GLE, Porsche Cayenne, Land Rover Discovery, Range Rover Sport, and Volvo XC90.
Under the bonnet, buyers have been spoilt for choice, although this variety can also be confusing. On the diesel side, entry models started with the xDrive25d, a 2.0-litre four-cylinder producing 170 kW (228 hp) and 450 Nm (332 lb-ft). The volume seller has long been the xDrive30d, with its silky 3.0-litre straight-six making either 195 kW (265 hp) and 620 Nm (457 lb-ft) in early guise, or 210 kW (286 hp) and 650 Nm (480 lb-ft) in later mild-hybrid form. Higher up, the xDrive40d brings 250 kW (340 hp) and 700 Nm (516 lb-ft). Petrol options range from the xDrive30i 2.0-litre four-cylinder with 195 kW (265 hp) and 400 Nm (295 lb-ft), through to the superb xDrive40i, initially offering 245 kW (333 hp) and 450 Nm (332 lb-ft) before its facelift brought mild-hybrid assistance and a lift to 280 kW (381 hp) and 540 Nm (398 lb-ft).
Plug-in hybrids have also been a big part of the range, the early xDrive45e combining a 3.0-litre six and electric motor for 290 kW (389 hp) and 600 Nm (443 lb-ft), later upgraded in LCI form to the xDrive50e with 360 kW (490 hp) and 700 Nm (516 lb-ft). For those chasing outright power, the V8 options are where it’s at: the xDrive50i and M50i used BMW’s 4.4-litre twin-turbo V8 with a stout 390 kW (530 hp) and 750 Nm (553 lb-ft), while the facelift (LCI) brought in the M60i, running the new S68 mild-hybrid V8 while retaining identical outputs. Every version drives all four wheels through BMW’s slick 8-speed ZF automatic transmission, praised for its refinement and versatility.
In terms of updates, the 2023 LCI facelift gave both the X5 and X6 a sharper look with slimmer headlights, reworked tail-lights, revised bumpers, and a new interior featuring BMW’s curved dual-screen display running iDrive 8. Powertrains were refreshed with mild-hybrid technology across most six-cylinder models, and the plug-in hybrid was given a significant performance and range boost. Trim levels have varied over the years, but typically even entry cars came well equipped with leather, large infotainment screens, and safety tech, while higher-spec M Sport variants added sportier styling, adaptive suspension and premium sound options. Packages such as the xLine, M Sport, and various luxury or performance packs allowed further tailoring with features like air suspension, panoramic glass roofs, Bowers & Wilkins sound, or advanced driver assistance systems.
Positioned in Australia as a premium, family-friendly SUV with strong performance credentials, the X5 and X6 have sold well thanks to BMW’s extensive dealer and service network here. That support network is one of the brand’s biggest strengths, but the sting comes in maintenance and parts pricing. Servicing and consumables can command enormous premiums compared with mainstream SUVs, and while capped-price servicing packages are available, owners often complain of costs ballooning outside warranty and service plan periods.
Against the competition, the X5 and X6 generally strike a balance between the sportiness of a Porsche Cayenne, the comfort of a Mercedes GLE, and the practicality of an Audi Q7. The X6, while less practical, appeals to buyers wanting style and presence over outright space, competing most directly with the Audi Q8 and Mercedes GLE Coupe. Both models sit at the heart of the luxury SUV segment, and on the used market, they tend to depreciate faster than Lexus or Volvo rivals but hold up better than Land Rover offerings.
Now, it wouldn’t be a BMW without mentioning reliability. While build quality, fit, and finish are generally very good, BMW’s reputation for long-term reliability is mixed. There is a long list of commonly reported complaints from electronic gremlins to trim piece issues toi major mechanical concerns. These are all covered in more detail in our “What Goes Wrong” section below, they’re a must read if you’re in the market.
Exterior:
Over time, the tailgate and taillights on the X5 and X6 can possibly develop a bit of a rattle. Before you panic, there’s nothing inherently wrong with them , it usually just comes down to certain components needing a proper adjustment. The hot tip here is don’t rush straight back to the dealership once the warranty has run out, because they’ll happily relieve you of a small fortune just to tighten up a few bits and pieces. Instead, jump on the BMW owner groups and forums, there’s a heap of genuinely helpful advice out there and many owners have sorted the issue themselves for next to nothing.
Before you buy, have a close look at how well things like the door handles, side skirts and wheel arch trims are attached. We came across plenty of complaints from owners saying their cars left the factory with screws or clips either loose or missing altogether. And if they weren’t properly secured from day one, chances are they’ll end up working themselves loose down the track.
If you’re looking at one with air suspension, there have been some reports of issues with the rear set-up. Sometimes it’s something simple like a dodgy sensor, but other owners have ended up needing new compressors, or worse, chasing down leaks throughout the system. And that, unfortunately, can cost all of the monies to fix. To be fair though, this isn’t what we’d call a widespread issue, and when the air suspension is working as intended, it’s genuinely superb.
Moving to the front suspension, premature wear of the control arm bushes is fairly common, but to be fair, this is the sort of problem we see across a lot of cars in this category. On your test drive, feel for any strange vibrations, clunks, or if the whole car just feels a bit loose. If that’s the case, those bushes probably need replacing, otherwise handling and ride quality goes straight out the window, and you’ll be chewing through tyres faster than you’d like.
Speaking of tyres, if the car is pulling to one side or the other during your drive, hopefully it’s just in need of a wheel alignment, but it can also point to various steering components being on the way out. We asked one of the BMW techs what that might cost to fix and he literally said, “don’t ask.”
And here’s the reality: these things are big, heavy sleds. They tip the scales at well over two tonnes, yet they’re still expected to live up to BMW’s reputation for driving dynamics. That puts massive strain on consumables. They chew through tyres, they need premium rubber to
Exterior:
Over time, the tailgate and taillights on the X5 and X6 can possibly develop a bit of a rattle. Before you panic, there’s nothing inherently wrong with them , it usually just comes down to certain components needing a proper adjustment. The hot tip here is don’t rush straight back to the dealership once the warranty has run out, because they’ll happily relieve you of a small fortune just to tighten up a few bits and pieces. Instead, jump on the BMW owner groups and forums, there’s a heap of genuinely helpful advice out there and many owners have sorted the issue themselves for next to nothing.
Before you buy, have a close look at how well things like the door handles, side skirts and wheel arch trims are attached. We came across plenty of complaints from owners saying their cars left the factory with screws or clips either loose or missing altogether. And if they weren’t properly secured from day one, chances are they’ll end up working themselves loose down the track.
If you’re looking at one with air suspension, there have been some reports of issues with the rear set-up. Sometimes it’s something simple like a dodgy sensor, but other owners have ended up needing new compressors, or worse, chasing down leaks throughout the system. And that, unfortunately, can cost all of the monies to fix. To be fair though, this isn’t what we’d call a widespread issue, and when the air suspension is working as intended, it’s genuinely superb.
Moving to the front suspension, premature wear of the control arm bushes is fairly common, but to be fair, this is the sort of problem we see across a lot of cars in this category. On your test drive, feel for any strange vibrations, clunks, or if the whole car just feels a bit loose. If that’s the case, those bushes probably need replacing, otherwise handling and ride quality goes straight out the window, and you’ll be chewing through tyres faster than you’d like.
Speaking of tyres, if the car is pulling to one side or the other during your drive, hopefully it’s just in need of a wheel alignment, but it can also point to various steering components being on the way out. We asked one of the BMW techs what that might cost to fix and he literally said, “don’t ask.”
And here’s the reality: these things are big, heavy sleds. They tip the scales at well over two tonnes, yet they’re still expected to live up to BMW’s reputation for driving dynamics. That puts massive strain on consumables. They chew through tyres, they need premium rubber to be at their best, and the tyres alone are expensive. The brakes? Same story. Even the wheels themselves don’t always cope with the weight, cracked rims aren’t uncommon. But here’s the trick: don’t blindly throw money at genuine BMW parts. Do your homework on aftermarket alternatives, because in plenty of cases they’ll outlast, outperform, and cost less than OEM gear.
Central locking issues are another thing to keep an eye on. Plenty of owners have had dramas with doors not locking or unlocking properly, usually caused by faulty actuators, the control module playing up, or in some cases, an underlying electronic gremlin. And that brings us neatly to the sunroof.
In hotter climates like Australia, the seals on these sunroofs have been known to shrink with age, and we’ve heard of owners needing complete seal replacements in as little as four years. The bigger issue, though, is that dealerships often don’t even check these seals during servicing. If they’re ignored, they can allow water into the cabin, and that can go on to cause all sorts of electronic nightmares. Do your research though, because some clever folk online are selling 3D-printed spacers that can fill the gaps without replacing the seals, saving you from paying the exorbitant amounts BMW will happily charge for what is a relatively simple issue.
On the subject of water ingress, the shark fin antenna can be another problem child, but we’ll get to that when we cover the interior. For now, let’s talk exterior electronics, because while most owners have no dramas at all, the unlucky few have had a proper grab bag of random issues. We’re talking Park Distance Control either not picking up obstacles or sensing things that aren’t there, windows refusing to open or close, the active front grille failing to open and shut, headlights refusing to turn off unless you cycle the switch a dozen times, and daytime running lights that flicker, dim or just fail altogether. In a lot of those DRL cases it’s down to the chip or module failing, sometimes even melting. If the car’s out of warranty, check the forums before running to BMW , there are cheaper fixes out there. But whatever you do, make sure it’s fixed properly, because botched jobs have been known to cascade into other electrical issues.
If the car you’re looking at has the optional laser headlights, cross your fingers and pray nothing goes wrong. While most owners are fine, we’ve seen reports of the lasers literally snapping inside the housing, and the only fix is a brand-new unit. BMW will usually replace these under warranty, but one unlucky owner we spoke to was out of warranty and was quoted $9253.00 per headlight. Each. The good news? Many cars won’t be fitted with laser lights, so if you’re worried about your bank balance, maybe stick with the standard setup.
Interior:
Inside, the seats are supportive, comfortable, and especially nice in sportier trims. That said, quite a few owners have complained about their seats developing creaks and squeaks over time, and dealerships have been less than successful in fixing them.
The HVAC system is another one to keep an eye on. While most owners won’t have an issue, if something does go wrong it’s usually the condenser or evaporator. The problem? To replace either often means pulling the dashboard apart. BMW quotes around 20 hours of labour for the job, and if you’re not covered by warranty, you’re looking at somewhere between five and eight and a half grand.
Electronic gremlins are again a theme here, and like the exterior, there’s no single major fault, just a collection of random issues. Some owners report their steering wheel or seat adjustment controls failing, either only working in one direction, or working one minute then giving up the next. Ambient lighting sometimes only works on one side of the car, gauges flicker, displays cut out, or warning lights stay on when there’s nothing actually wrong.
The root causes are varied: dodgy sensors, software glitches, wiring issues, faulty auxiliary batteries messing with voltage regulation, or ADAS calibration problems. And because all of these systems are linked together, one small fault can often cause a domino effect. Water ingress from the sunroof or shark fin antenna can make this a whole lot worse, especially as the telematics module lives up in the roof. If that gets wet, not only can you get electrical issues, but the infotainment system can completely freak out.
The silver lining is that replacing the module is a straightforward job you can do yourself, and while you may still need to have it coded at a dealer or remotely, doing it yourself can save you thousands compared to BMW’s quote.
Now, iDrive itself is brilliant. Intuitive, feature-packed, and one of the best infotainment systems on the market. Most people will only scratch the surface of what it can do. Personally, like plenty of owners, I prefer this pre-LCI version over the face-lifted one. But some owners have had their entire system cut out, others have had blank screens, and Apple CarPlay disconnections are a common complaint, especially in areas with heavy signal interference like toll booths. Oh, and avoid the wireless charging pad — more than a few owners claim it can actually fry your phone.
Still, remember that many owners never experience any of this. A mate of mine in highway patrol told me the police-spec X5s they use have been incredibly reliable electronically, and the issues they do see are usually fixed with a restart or software update. That said, remote software updates have caused headaches for some private owners, with cars stuck in “software transferring to car” mode for weeks on end.
If the problems can’t be solved with an update, restart, or battery replacement, then it becomes a frustrating treasure hunt, with one faulty component leading you to the next, each one costing you more money.
And then there’s the sound system. For a car in this price bracket, the standard stereo is underwhelming, and even the Harman Kardon system leaves some owners unimpressed. As for the optional Bowers & Wilkins, it’s good but not quite the mind-blowing experience you might expect given the hefty price tag.
When it comes to build quality, the consensus is that this generation is better than the old F15, which was notorious for its quality issues. That said, many owners reckon the pre-LCI versions like this are actually built better than the facelifted models. One owner even told us, and I quote, “my LCI X5 is utter trash compared to the old one.” Gloss black plastic trim has also crept into the facelift, and as we all know, gloss black looks good for about thirty seconds before it scratches and smudges itself into oblivion.
Other quirks? In hot climates like Australia, some cars with leather dashboards have had the leather peel away around the head-up display, which looks cheap and nasty. Panel isolation inside the cabin isn’t always great either, plastic panels can creak and squeak, and it generally gets worse as the car ages. The steering wheel surround, the lower plastics, the door cards, none of it feels as solid as what you’d find in a Lexus or Genesis. Even mainstream SUVs like the Hyundai Santa Fe and Kia Sorento can feel tougher inside.
And finally, equipment levels. Don’t get us wrong, the X5 and X6 come loaded with toys, but many of the really impressive features are locked behind expensive option packs. Meanwhile, cars like the Santa Fe give you much of the same gear as standard.
Mechanically:
Petrol:
BMW’s petrol engines here are part of their modular family, which means the four- and six-cylinder engines share a heap of components. Things like pistons, rods, timing chains, and oil filter housings are all common across different engines. Great for production costs, but it also means they share common problems.
One of the big ones is the oil filter housing, which tends to leak both coolant and oil, inside and out, usually from around 80,000 km onwards.
Then there’s the heat management module, basically a high-tech thermostat with moving valves, servo actuators, and multiple seals and o-rings, all of which are prone to failure. They tend to give up around the 150,000 km mark. Accessing it is a pain, requiring the removal of the DME, the intake manifold, and the oil filter housing itself. So the smart move is to replace both at the same time if budget allows.
The rest of the cooling system is mostly plastic, bypass pipes, expansion tanks, the lot. Once you’re over 100,000 km, any of these could fail at any time.
Vanos solenoids can also leak oil or seize, particularly if oil changes are neglected. They live at the back of the valve cover and access isn’t great.
Then we’ve got camshaft gears (or sprockets). They’re not a super common failure, but when they do go, they can break internally and throw up camshaft offset fault codes. Some people mistake this for a timing chain issue, so check the sprockets carefully before diving into chains.
On that note, timing chains live at the back of the engine, meaning it’s an engine or gearbox-out job if they need replacing. Thankfully, they’ve been fairly reliable so far. The oil filter itself has been known to collapse or disintegrate, so always use a good-quality filter and change it at least every 10,000 km.
N63 V8:
Now to the infamous N63 “hot vee” V8. Or as some call it, hot mess. It makes good power, it sounds fantastic, but when it comes to longevity, it’s… not the engine you want for the long haul.
It’s unnecessarily complicated, with tandem high- and low-temperature cooling systems, and the low-temp side is basically a spaghetti mess of hoses that all age poorly.
Injector failure is a known problem, the high-pressure fuel pump can leak internally, diluting the oil and causing weird fuelling issues, and the turbo oil return connectors can leak, filling the valley with oil and dripping down the back of the engine often misdiagnosed as a rear main seal leak.
The turbo oil supply lines can clog with sludge thanks to all the heat, starving the turbos of oil, and the coolant lines in the valley are also prone to failure.
The coolant cover at the back of the engine is another known leaker. Add in small connecting rod bearings that wear out if the engine is neglected or thrashed, and you’re left with an engine that sounds great but will likely demand a rebuild or replacement if pushed too far.
Diesel:
The B47 2.0 four-cylinder and B57 3.0 six-cylinder diesels are much simpler in design, partly because they don’t use Valvetronic. That’s a good thing. But they’re not without their quirks.
Inlet manifolds can clog with soot, causing swirl flap linkages and actuators to fail. The MAP sensor needs to be removed and cleaned at every service, and EGR clogging is pretty common. Boost leaks from the intake pipes can also lead to DPF issues if not addressed.
Single-turbo versions are relatively robust so far, but the quad-turbo configuration is incredibly complex and likely to become very expensive as the cars age.
Transmission/Transfer case and differentials:
There’s a growing chorus of G05 X5 and G06 X6 owners reporting transfer case shuddering and the odd differential failure, and it’s not just internet hysteria. BMW’s own service bulletins acknowledge driveline “jerking or shuddering” that shows up at low speeds and on light throttle, and they list two prime suspects: tyres that don’t match (in size/circumference or wear) and transfer-case oil that doesn’t meet spec—including instances tied back to the factory fill. In plain English, that clever xDrive clutch pack hates being forced to compensate for mismatched rolling diameters and it’s fussy about its fluid; get either wrong and you’re accelerating wear on very expensive hardware.
Before you buy—or even after you’ve bought, be ruthless about tyres. BMW’s guidance for xDrive is to keep tyre brand, model and tread pattern consistent on an axle, ideally across all four corners, and to stay inside small tread-depth deltas so you’re not winding up the transfer case just cruising down the motorway. In practice that means replacing in pairs (often fours) and measuring tread, not eyeballing it. BMW’s own materials spell out tight tolerances, and independent BMW repair documentation repeats the same message: keep the rolling circumference matched or pay the price later. If you’re looking at a used car with two fresh rears and half-worn fronts, budget a new set and a proper alignment immediately.
The other easy own-goal is fluids. The transfer case in these runs a wet multi-plate clutch and needs the correct fluid, quantity and service procedure; even well-meaning workshops can get this wrong, and BMW’s bulletin history explicitly mentions issues traced to the oil itself. If you’re chasing low-speed judder, groans on tight turns or binding that feels like the tyres are “skipping”, a fluid service with the approved spec and reset procedure can help—sometimes it cures it, sometimes it only delays an eventual replacement. Ignore it and you risk chewing out the clutch pack and, in the worst cases, stressing front or rear differentials; there are documented front-diff failures on G05s around mid-life kilometres that were not cheap days out.
So if you’re a prospective buyer, treat tyres and fluids as non-negotiables. Confirm all four tyres match brand and pattern, check tread depths with a gauge, and look for evidence of regular driveline fluid services done to BMW procedure, not just “lifetime fluid” hand-waving on an invoice. On a test drive, listen and feel for shuddering when turning slowly, hesitation or binding off the line, or any driveline notchiness under gentle load; those are classic xDrive transfer-case tells. If any of this crops up, walk away or negotiate hard, because a proper fix can escalate from a fluid service to a five-figure transfer-case or differential replacement, and that’s a world of hurt you don’t need
Finally, BMW dealerships love pushing long service intervals, sometimes up to 25,000 km, but if you want these engines to last, service them every 10,000 km. Oil is cheap, engines and driveline components aren’t.
Exterior:
Over time, the tailgate and taillights on the X5 and X6 can possibly develop a bit of a rattle. Before you panic, there’s nothing inherently wrong with them , it usually just comes down to certain components needing a proper adjustment. The hot tip here is don’t rush straight back to the dealership once the warranty has run out, because they’ll happily relieve you of a small fortune just to tighten up a few bits and pieces. Instead, jump on the BMW owner groups and forums, there’s a heap of genuinely helpful advice out there and many owners have sorted the issue themselves for next to nothing.
Before you buy, have a close look at how well things like the door handles, side skirts and wheel arch trims are attached. We came across plenty of complaints from owners saying their cars left the factory with screws or clips either loose or missing altogether. And if they weren’t properly secured from day one, chances are they’ll end up working themselves loose down the track.
If you’re looking at one with air suspension, there have been some reports of issues with the rear set-up. Sometimes it’s something simple like a dodgy sensor, but other owners have ended up needing new compressors, or worse, chasing down leaks throughout the system. And that, unfortunately, can cost all of the monies to fix. To be fair though, this isn’t what we’d call a widespread issue, and when the air suspension is working as intended, it’s genuinely superb.
Moving to the front suspension, premature wear of the control arm bushes is fairly common, but to be fair, this is the sort of problem we see across a lot of cars in this category. On your test drive, feel for any strange vibrations, clunks, or if the whole car just feels a bit loose. If that’s the case, those bushes probably need replacing, otherwise handling and ride quality goes straight out the window, and you’ll be chewing through tyres faster than you’d like.
Speaking of tyres, if the car is pulling to one side or the other during your drive, hopefully it’s just in need of a wheel alignment, but it can also point to various steering components being on the way out. We asked one of the BMW techs what that might cost to fix and he literally said, “don’t ask.”
And here’s the reality: these things are big, heavy sleds. They tip the scales at well over two tonnes, yet they’re still expected to live up to BMW’s reputation for driving dynamics. That puts massive strain on consumables. They chew through tyres, they need premium rubber to be at their best, and the tyres alone are expensive. The brakes? Same story. Even the wheels themselves don’t always cope with the weight, cracked rims aren’t uncommon. But here’s the trick: don’t blindly throw money at genuine BMW parts. Do your homework on aftermarket alternatives, because in plenty of cases they’ll outlast, outperform, and cost less than OEM gear.
Central locking issues are another thing to keep an eye on. Plenty of owners have had dramas with doors not locking or unlocking properly, usually caused by faulty actuators, the control module playing up, or in some cases, an underlying electronic gremlin. And that brings us neatly to the sunroof.
In hotter climates like Australia, the seals on these sunroofs have been known to shrink with age, and we’ve heard of owners needing complete seal replacements in as little as four years. The bigger issue, though, is that dealerships often don’t even check these seals during servicing. If they’re ignored, they can allow water into the cabin, and that can go on to cause all sorts of electronic nightmares. Do your research though, because some clever folk online are selling 3D-printed spacers that can fill the gaps without replacing the seals, saving you from paying the exorbitant amounts BMW will happily charge for what is a relatively simple issue.
On the subject of water ingress, the shark fin antenna can be another problem child, but we’ll get to that when we cover the interior. For now, let’s talk exterior electronics, because while most owners have no dramas at all, the unlucky few have had a proper grab bag of random issues. We’re talking Park Distance Control either not picking up obstacles or sensing things that aren’t there, windows refusing to open or close, the active front grille failing to open and shut, headlights refusing to turn off unless you cycle the switch a dozen times, and daytime running lights that flicker, dim or just fail altogether. In a lot of those DRL cases it’s down to the chip or module failing, sometimes even melting. If the car’s out of warranty, check the forums before running to BMW , there are cheaper fixes out there. But whatever you do, make sure it’s fixed properly, because botched jobs have been known to cascade into other electrical issues.
If the car you’re looking at has the optional laser headlights, cross your fingers and pray nothing goes wrong. While most owners are fine, we’ve seen reports of the lasers literally snapping inside the housing, and the only fix is a brand-new unit. BMW will usually replace these under warranty, but one unlucky owner we spoke to was out of warranty and was quoted $9253.00 per headlight. Each. The good news? Many cars won’t be fitted with laser lights, so if you’re worried about your bank balance, maybe stick with the standard setup.
Interior:
Inside, the seats are supportive, comfortable, and especially nice in sportier trims. That said, quite a few owners have complained about their seats developing creaks and squeaks over time, and dealerships have been less than successful in fixing them.
The HVAC system is another one to keep an eye on. While most owners won’t have an issue, if something does go wrong it’s usually the condenser or evaporator. The problem? To replace either often means pulling the dashboard apart. BMW quotes around 20 hours of labour for the job, and if you’re not covered by warranty, you’re looking at somewhere between five and eight and a half grand.
Electronic gremlins are again a theme here, and like the exterior, there’s no single major fault, just a collection of random issues. Some owners report their steering wheel or seat adjustment controls failing, either only working in one direction, or working one minute then giving up the next. Ambient lighting sometimes only works on one side of the car, gauges flicker, displays cut out, or warning lights stay on when there’s nothing actually wrong.
The root causes are varied: dodgy sensors, software glitches, wiring issues, faulty auxiliary batteries messing with voltage regulation, or ADAS calibration problems. And because all of these systems are linked together, one small fault can often cause a domino effect. Water ingress from the sunroof or shark fin antenna can make this a whole lot worse, especially as the telematics module lives up in the roof. If that gets wet, not only can you get electrical issues, but the infotainment system can completely freak out.
The silver lining is that replacing the module is a straightforward job you can do yourself, and while you may still need to have it coded at a dealer or remotely, doing it yourself can save you thousands compared to BMW’s quote.
Now, iDrive itself is brilliant. Intuitive, feature-packed, and one of the best infotainment systems on the market. Most people will only scratch the surface of what it can do. Personally, like plenty of owners, I prefer this pre-LCI version over the face-lifted one. But some owners have had their entire system cut out, others have had blank screens, and Apple CarPlay disconnections are a common complaint, especially in areas with heavy signal interference like toll booths. Oh, and avoid the wireless charging pad — more than a few owners claim it can actually fry your phone.
Still, remember that many owners never experience any of this. A mate of mine in highway patrol told me the police-spec X5s they use have been incredibly reliable electronically, and the issues they do see are usually fixed with a restart or software update. That said, remote software updates have caused headaches for some private owners, with cars stuck in “software transferring to car” mode for weeks on end.
If the problems can’t be solved with an update, restart, or battery replacement, then it becomes a frustrating treasure hunt, with one faulty component leading you to the next, each one costing you more money.
And then there’s the sound system. For a car in this price bracket, the standard stereo is underwhelming, and even the Harman Kardon system leaves some owners unimpressed. As for the optional Bowers & Wilkins, it’s good but not quite the mind-blowing experience you might expect given the hefty price tag.
When it comes to build quality, the consensus is that this generation is better than the old F15, which was notorious for its quality issues. That said, many owners reckon the pre-LCI versions like this are actually built better than the facelifted models. One owner even told us, and I quote, “my LCI X5 is utter trash compared to the old one.” Gloss black plastic trim has also crept into the facelift, and as we all know, gloss black looks good for about thirty seconds before it scratches and smudges itself into oblivion.
Other quirks? In hot climates like Australia, some cars with leather dashboards have had the leather peel away around the head-up display, which looks cheap and nasty. Panel isolation inside the cabin isn’t always great either, plastic panels can creak and squeak, and it generally gets worse as the car ages. The steering wheel surround, the lower plastics, the door cards, none of it feels as solid as what you’d find in a Lexus or Genesis. Even mainstream SUVs like the Hyundai Santa Fe and Kia Sorento can feel tougher inside.
And finally, equipment levels. Don’t get us wrong, the X5 and X6 come loaded with toys, but many of the really impressive features are locked behind expensive option packs. Meanwhile, cars like the Santa Fe give you much of the same gear as standard.
Mechanically:
Petrol:
BMW’s petrol engines here are part of their modular family, which means the four- and six-cylinder engines share a heap of components. Things like pistons, rods, timing chains, and oil filter housings are all common across different engines. Great for production costs, but it also means they share common problems.
One of the big ones is the oil filter housing, which tends to leak both coolant and oil, inside and out, usually from around 80,000 km onwards.
Then there’s the heat management module, basically a high-tech thermostat with moving valves, servo actuators, and multiple seals and o-rings, all of which are prone to failure. They tend to give up around the 150,000 km mark. Accessing it is a pain, requiring the removal of the DME, the intake manifold, and the oil filter housing itself. So the smart move is to replace both at the same time if budget allows.
The rest of the cooling system is mostly plastic, bypass pipes, expansion tanks, the lot. Once you’re over 100,000 km, any of these could fail at any time.
Vanos solenoids can also leak oil or seize, particularly if oil changes are neglected. They live at the back of the valve cover and access isn’t great.
Then we’ve got camshaft gears (or sprockets). They’re not a super common failure, but when they do go, they can break internally and throw up camshaft offset fault codes. Some people mistake this for a timing chain issue, so check the sprockets carefully before diving into chains.
On that note, timing chains live at the back of the engine, meaning it’s an engine or gearbox-out job if they need replacing. Thankfully, they’ve been fairly reliable so far. The oil filter itself has been known to collapse or disintegrate, so always use a good-quality filter and change it at least every 10,000 km.
N63 V8:
Now to the infamous N63 “hot vee” V8. Or as some call it, hot mess. It makes good power, it sounds fantastic, but when it comes to longevity, it’s… not the engine you want for the long haul.
It’s unnecessarily complicated, with tandem high- and low-temperature cooling systems, and the low-temp side is basically a spaghetti mess of hoses that all age poorly.
Injector failure is a known problem, the high-pressure fuel pump can leak internally, diluting the oil and causing weird fuelling issues, and the turbo oil return connectors can leak, filling the valley with oil and dripping down the back of the engine often misdiagnosed as a rear main seal leak.
The turbo oil supply lines can clog with sludge thanks to all the heat, starving the turbos of oil, and the coolant lines in the valley are also prone to failure.
The coolant cover at the back of the engine is another known leaker. Add in small connecting rod bearings that wear out if the engine is neglected or thrashed, and you’re left with an engine that sounds great but will likely demand a rebuild or replacement if pushed too far.
Diesel:
The B47 2.0 four-cylinder and B57 3.0 six-cylinder diesels are much simpler in design, partly because they don’t use Valvetronic. That’s a good thing. But they’re not without their quirks.
Inlet manifolds can clog with soot, causing swirl flap linkages and actuators to fail. The MAP sensor needs to be removed and cleaned at every service, and EGR clogging is pretty common. Boost leaks from the intake pipes can also lead to DPF issues if not addressed.
Single-turbo versions are relatively robust so far, but the quad-turbo configuration is incredibly complex and likely to become very expensive as the cars age.
Transmission/Transfer case and differentials:
There’s a growing chorus of G05 X5 and G06 X6 owners reporting transfer case shuddering and the odd differential failure, and it’s not just internet hysteria. BMW’s own service bulletins acknowledge driveline “jerking or shuddering” that shows up at low speeds and on light throttle, and they list two prime suspects: tyres that don’t match (in size/circumference or wear) and transfer-case oil that doesn’t meet spec—including instances tied back to the factory fill. In plain English, that clever xDrive clutch pack hates being forced to compensate for mismatched rolling diameters and it’s fussy about its fluid; get either wrong and you’re accelerating wear on very expensive hardware.
Before you buy—or even after you’ve bought, be ruthless about tyres. BMW’s guidance for xDrive is to keep tyre brand, model and tread pattern consistent on an axle, ideally across all four corners, and to stay inside small tread-depth deltas so you’re not winding up the transfer case just cruising down the motorway. In practice that means replacing in pairs (often fours) and measuring tread, not eyeballing it. BMW’s own materials spell out tight tolerances, and independent BMW repair documentation repeats the same message: keep the rolling circumference matched or pay the price later. If you’re looking at a used car with two fresh rears and half-worn fronts, budget a new set and a proper alignment immediately.
The other easy own-goal is fluids. The transfer case in these runs a wet multi-plate clutch and needs the correct fluid, quantity and service procedure; even well-meaning workshops can get this wrong, and BMW’s bulletin history explicitly mentions issues traced to the oil itself. If you’re chasing low-speed judder, groans on tight turns or binding that feels like the tyres are “skipping”, a fluid service with the approved spec and reset procedure can help—sometimes it cures it, sometimes it only delays an eventual replacement. Ignore it and you risk chewing out the clutch pack and, in the worst cases, stressing front or rear differentials; there are documented front-diff failures on G05s around mid-life kilometres that were not cheap days out.
So if you’re a prospective buyer, treat tyres and fluids as non-negotiables. Confirm all four tyres match brand and pattern, check tread depths with a gauge, and look for evidence of regular driveline fluid services done to BMW procedure, not just “lifetime fluid” hand-waving on an invoice. On a test drive, listen and feel for shuddering when turning slowly, hesitation or binding off the line, or any driveline notchiness under gentle load; those are classic xDrive transfer-case tells. If any of this crops up, walk away or negotiate hard, because a proper fix can escalate from a fluid service to a five-figure transfer-case or differential replacement, and that’s a world of hurt you don’t need
Finally, BMW dealerships love pushing long service intervals, sometimes up to 25,000 km, but if you want these engines to last, service them every 10,000 km. Oil is cheap, engines and driveline components aren’t.
There’s a really important factor you need to keep in mind, and this could make or break your decision. A huge number of G05 X5s and G06 X6s floating around the used market here in Australia are ex-lease cars. And sadly, what that often translates to is patchy maintenance at best, and at worst, examples that have been absolutely flogged within an inch of their lives. The mindset with many lease owners is pretty simple: they know they’re not keeping the car, so why bother treating it with long-term care?
Even for those owners who thought they were doing everything right, sticking religiously to BMW’s condition-based servicing schedule, the harsh reality is that this approach is notorious for biting hard in the long run. Yes, it saves money up front and it ticks the box for the lease company, but countless BMW experts will tell you that stretching out oil changes and major service intervals can lead to catastrophic consequences for mechanical longevity. And if you buy one of these cars second-hand, you’re the one who could be footing the bill for the fallout.
That’s why, in our view, the only time you should seriously consider buying a used X5 is if you can be 100 per cent confident it has been serviced well ahead of BMW’s recommended schedule, if it passes a proper pre-purchase inspection with no dramas, or if it’s still new enough to be covered by the original full BMW factory warranty. And no,
There’s a really important factor you need to keep in mind, and this could make or break your decision. A huge number of G05 X5s and G06 X6s floating around the used market here in Australia are ex-lease cars. And sadly, what that often translates to is patchy maintenance at best, and at worst, examples that have been absolutely flogged within an inch of their lives. The mindset with many lease owners is pretty simple: they know they’re not keeping the car, so why bother treating it with long-term care?
Even for those owners who thought they were doing everything right, sticking religiously to BMW’s condition-based servicing schedule, the harsh reality is that this approach is notorious for biting hard in the long run. Yes, it saves money up front and it ticks the box for the lease company, but countless BMW experts will tell you that stretching out oil changes and major service intervals can lead to catastrophic consequences for mechanical longevity. And if you buy one of these cars second-hand, you’re the one who could be footing the bill for the fallout.
That’s why, in our view, the only time you should seriously consider buying a used X5 is if you can be 100 per cent confident it has been serviced well ahead of BMW’s recommended schedule, if it passes a proper pre-purchase inspection with no dramas, or if it’s still new enough to be covered by the original full BMW factory warranty. And no, we’re not talking about those generic used-car warranties you get thrown in at a dealership, most of those aren’t worth the paper they’re printed on.
Now, if it ticks all those boxes, and you’re in a financial position where a surprise $10,000, $15,000 or even $20,000 repair bill won’t ruin you, and you’re comfortable with the fact these things depreciate like they’ve fallen off a cliff, then yeah — go for it. Get the right X5 and it can be an absolutely epic SUV. But an X6? Come on. Why would you do that to yourself? All the potential headaches of an X5, only with worse resale and a shape that even its own mother couldn’t love. God no.
There’s a really important factor you need to keep in mind, and this could make or break your decision. A huge number of G05 X5s and G06 X6s floating around the used market here in Australia are ex-lease cars. And sadly, what that often translates to is patchy maintenance at best, and at worst, examples that have been absolutely flogged within an inch of their lives. The mindset with many lease owners is pretty simple: they know they’re not keeping the car, so why bother treating it with long-term care?
Even for those owners who thought they were doing everything right, sticking religiously to BMW’s condition-based servicing schedule, the harsh reality is that this approach is notorious for biting hard in the long run. Yes, it saves money up front and it ticks the box for the lease company, but countless BMW experts will tell you that stretching out oil changes and major service intervals can lead to catastrophic consequences for mechanical longevity. And if you buy one of these cars second-hand, you’re the one who could be footing the bill for the fallout.
That’s why, in our view, the only time you should seriously consider buying a used X5 is if you can be 100 per cent confident it has been serviced well ahead of BMW’s recommended schedule, if it passes a proper pre-purchase inspection with no dramas, or if it’s still new enough to be covered by the original full BMW factory warranty. And no, we’re not talking about those generic used-car warranties you get thrown in at a dealership, most of those aren’t worth the paper they’re printed on.
Now, if it ticks all those boxes, and you’re in a financial position where a surprise $10,000, $15,000 or even $20,000 repair bill won’t ruin you, and you’re comfortable with the fact these things depreciate like they’ve fallen off a cliff, then yeah — go for it. Get the right X5 and it can be an absolutely epic SUV. But an X6? Come on. Why would you do that to yourself? All the potential headaches of an X5, only with worse resale and a shape that even its own mother couldn’t love. God no.
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Please note that pricing information is subject to fluctuations in the automotive market.
Information correct as of August 10, 2025.
The advice provided on this website is general advice only. It has been prepared without taking into account your objectives, financial situation or needs. Before acting on this advice, you should consider the appropriateness of the advice, having regard to your own objectives, financial situation and needs.
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