Used Ferrari 360 review

Exterior

• The door handles are known to stretch their cables over time. Once the cable stretches too far, the handle simply stops working, which means a full door disassembly is required to fix it. This isn’t a simple job, and owners recommend never pulling the door open using the handle itself. Instead, use the edge of the door to avoid placing stress on the mechanism.
• In colder climates, door locks can fail. While this isn’t as common in Australia’s warmer weather, it’s still something to watch for, particularly if the car has spent time overseas.
• Similarly, the drop-down windows, which automatically lower slightly when opening the doors, can start acting up as the electronics age. If the glass doesn’t lower, forcing the door open could crack or damage the trim or glass. If it doesn’t rise back into position, it could be a simple recalibration, or it might be more serious electronic failure, which becomes a very big deal if the weather turns sour.
• Speaking of weather, don’t assume the Spider behaves like an MX-5 when the roof is up. The folding roof is a complex mechanism involving multiple motors and sensors, and while light rain might be fine, anything heavier, like a proper downpour or even a car wash, can see water leaking into the cabin. As for the roof itself, expect issues eventually. Repairs aren’t just expensive, they can be deeply frustrating to sort out. Unless you’re absolutely in love with the open-top experience and never plan to drive in the wet, the coupe (Modena) is the smarter buy.
• The flat-plane crank V8 and rigid engine mounts are part of what gives the 360 its lively, connected feel, but that also means plenty of vibration. Over time, and especially on Australia’s rougher roads, that vibration can shake components loose, most notably the wing mirrors. They can be tightened temporarily, but eventually they’ll need replacement. Used mirrors can run from $750 to over $2,000, and new ones from Ferrari? Well, brace yourself.
• Then there are the headlights. Earlier models in particular are notorious for issues. If the inner lenses are faded, full of bugs, or misting up, or if the outer covers are cracked or damaged, just know that opening up and fixing these headlights is a nightmare. They were never really designed to be serviced, so even getting in there is a major task. To make matters more frustrating, the level adjusters inside the headlights are known to fail. If you’re replacing a headlight outright, even a second-hand unit could cost you close to $3,000. And that’s if you can find one in the correct finish for your car. If you’re unlucky enough to need a brand-new unit from Ferrari, owners have been quoted well over $10,000 including fitting and calibration.
• Thankfully, not all hope is lost. Some savvy owners have developed workarounds, using 3D-printed components or repurposed parts to sort out common problems, check the owners groups and forums for guidance before handing your wallet to a dealership.
• Because the 360’s body is almost entirely aluminium, any crash damage should be taken seriously. The aluminium construction is great for weight and rigidity, but it’s a nightmare to repair correctly. If one section is out, large portions of the body can require realignment, and getting panel gaps and paint finishes perfect again is incredibly difficult and expensive.
• While aluminium doesn’t rust, corrosion is still possible, especially around the side intakes, lower door edges, and side skirts. Bubbling paint in these areas can be an early warning sign.
• A few more oddities, on full lock, particularly on inclines, the tyres can catch on the front inner wheel arches and deform the liner. It’s a minor fix, but something to check.
• If you’re looking at a right-hand-drive car, chances are the windscreen wiper will smack into the bonnet, because Ferrari never properly calibrated it for RHD. Expect some missing paint at the contact point.
• Always verify the car’s visuals and features match what Ferrari originally delivered. Some sellers claim certain aesthetic elements are factory, but originality is critical to long-term value. That includes the Challenge-style front and rear grills, which should be a proper black mesh if genuine, and the Scuderia shields on the guards, if they’re just stickers, they’re aftermarket. Factory-fitted shields are proper enamel badges recessed into the bodywork.
• Aftermarket wheels? They can look incredible, if done right. High-quality items from brands like BBS are fine, but make sure the original wheels are included in the sale. Cheap aftermarket wheels are a red flag and could hint at cost-cutting in other areas.
• And while red and yellow are traditionally the ‘Ferrari’ colours, tastes have shifted. Today, rarer shades like silver, black, and deep blues are in demand. Combined with factory-fitted options, like carbon trim or Daytona seats, these more subtle specs are starting to command serious premiums.

Interior

• The leather is generally rich and beautifully finished, and even after 25 years, many cars still carry that distinctive Italian leather aroma. But that same leather doesn’t always cope well with Australia’s hot climate. It tends to shrink over time, which leads to plastic surrounds, especially around the windscreen vents, being forced out of position. The once-straight stitch lines across the dashboard often end up far from straight, and rippling or puckering is common.
• The passenger side airbag cover is another area to watch, it often ends up looking wrinkly and tired. And the seats? Many owners have had theirs reupholstered due to sagging leather or gathered sections where the material has pulled. The seat bolsters, especially on the entry side, tend to get discoloured or overly soft with age.
• There were a few seat options available, look out for cars with the Daytona-style seats featuring the classic metal eyelets, or even better, the fixed carbon-fibre racing seats. These not only feel fantastic to sit in but generally hold their value better as collector demand grows.
• Now, the sticky button issue. The 360 is infamous for this. Ferrari used a soft-touch coating on many of the plastics inside, and over time, especially with heat and age, it degrades. The result? Sticky buttons, grab handles, and air vents that feel like they’ve been dipped in syrup. Worse still, they seem to attract dust and grime. There are solutions, but getting them fixed properly is a big job. Owners report costs around $10,000 for a full fix, and strongly recommend staying away from Ferrari dealerships unless you enjoy haemorrhaging cash.
• The 360 was one of the first Ferraris where buyers could get creative with things like contrast stitching and coloured leather. These details matter today, subtle but desirable combinations can make a real difference to resale value. However, some textured plastics and finishes are known to scratch easily, and even on high-spec cars like the Challenge Stradale with carbon fibre trim, the clear coat can be prone to light scuffing. A decent polish can fix most of it.
• Before you buy, check that all the gauges light up properly. If the backlighting for one dial isn’t working, it’s not just a simple bulb replacement, the whole cluster often needs repair, which can be seriously expensive.

Mechanically

• Being over 20 years old, the Ferrari 360 is at the age where rubber seals and plastic fittings are starting to deteriorate, and with that comes the potential for oil leaks.
• Interestingly, one of the best ways to avoid these issues is to actually drive the car. A surprising number of 360s live in collections and rarely move, but this V8 thrives on regular use. Fuel pumps, for instance, there’s one in each tank, can seize if left unused for long periods.
• Camshaft variators were an issue in the earliest cars from 1999 and 2000, but these were updated in later builds. By now, most early cars should have had them replaced, so check the service history.
• Similarly, the cam/timing belt tensioner was updated mid-production. Again, history is critical. The timing belt itself needs to be replaced every three years or 50,000km—whichever comes first. Ignore this at your peril, because if it fails, it can equate to a catastrophic engine failure.
• The exhaust manifolds are known to crack, particularly noticeable when the engine is cold. Many owners choose to upgrade to an aftermarket exhaust. That’s fine, just make sure it’s a quality item and not a cheap system that’ll cause more problems later.
• Another common issue is with the inlet manifold and its variable-length runner mechanism. The linkages and bushes can wear and cause an annoying rattle. The good news is it’s repairable, and you can sometimes silence it just by applying pressure to the assembly.
• Engine mounts work hard in these cars, and by now, should have been replaced at least once. If they haven’t been, it could suggest the previous owner was skimping on maintenance.
• And one last critical tip, because the 360 uses a dry sump system, overfilling the oil is a recipe for disaster. Excess oil can get sucked into the intake and produce clouds of smoke on acceleration. Always check the oil level with the engine at full temperature, on level ground, and never top it up unless you’re certain.

Transmissions

• The 360 was offered with both a traditional gated six-speed manual and the F1 automated manual, but underneath, they’re essentially the same gearbox. The difference lies in how the clutch is actuated, manually in the gated version, and hydraulically in the F1 system.
• With the F1, hydraulic leaks are something to watch for. The pumps can fail, often because the relay sticks and causes them to run constantly until they burn out. Interestingly, the same pump is found in some Alfa Romeos, meaning replacements don’t have to cost Ferrari money if you shop smart.
• The transmission oil cooler is another known problem. If it fails internally, it can cause cross-contamination, mixing coolant and gearbox oil, which can result in catastrophic transmission failure if not caught early. Also, the transmission control module isn’t bulletproof and can throw up its own set of issues.
• As for clutch wear in the F1 system, it’s frequently accused of premature failure. Treated well, a clutch can last around 20,000 to 30,000km, not amazing by normal standards, but not bad for a Ferrari. The key number to check is the PIS value, the point at which the clutch bites, this can be adjusted via a scan tool. There’s also a clutch wear index available, but it’s only ever a rough guide.

Suspension

• Handling is one of the 360’s strengths, and that’s partly thanks to its suspension design. It uses rose joints and spherical bearings at nearly every pivot point, brilliant for precision and feel, but less so for longevity. These parts can wear relatively quickly, especially if the car has lived on poor roads. Even minor wear can introduce knocking or rattling, so on a test drive, listen carefully. Does it feel tight and sharp like a race car, or is it loose and tired?

Overall, a poorly maintained 360 can turn from dream car into financial nightmare in the blink of an eye. But a properly sorted, original, regularly driven example with a flawless history? That’s the stuff of modern classic legend.