Likes
- Best-in-class driving experience
- MASSIVE aftermarket support
- There’s a Ranger to suit every budget
Used Ford Ranger (PX) review
Dislikes
- Plenty on the used market will be abused or poorly modified
- Early examples lacking in features and tech
- Some engine types should be avoided
Stuff you should know
One of the first vehicles we reviewed here on ReDriven was the Ford Ranger – in fact, it was only the second video we did for the YouTube channel, as well as one of the first vehicles we did our ‘cheat sheets’ on. Fast forward to now, and we’ve come a long way since then, especially in our content quality and how we approach these reviews. So much so that we feel it’s only appropriate to do a ReDriven ‘re-do’ of some of the earlier vehicles we covered, starting with the Ford Ranger.
As a refresher, we’re focusing on the first-generation T6-based Ford Ranger (also referred to as the PX-gen), which was produced from 2011 to 2022, and available in at least 168 combinations/variants throughout its entire production run. Body styles/forms included a single-cab pickup or cab-commercial chassis, a super cab pickup and cab-chassis, rounded off by a four-door dual cab pickup and cab chassis. Entry-level trims/variants sent power to the rear wheels, but most feature four-wheel drive as standard.
From its launch in 2011, the T6-Ranger experienced two midlife updates.
- The Ranger began with the PXI (2011-2015), available with a 2.5L four-cylinder petrol , a 2.2L four-cylinder turbodiesel and 3.2L inline-five cylinder turbodiesel. Transmissions included a 5/6speed manual, along with a 6-speed automatic.
- The PXII followed (2015-2018) and dropped the petrol engine entirely, making the Ranger exclusively powered by diesel powertrains onwards. The 2.2L and 3.2L diesel engines remained, paired to 6-speed manual or automatic transmissions. Slightly different headlight designs were introduced, as well as electric power-assisted steering, improved ride quality and sound insulation.
- The PXIII served as the T6-Ranger’s final form (2018-2022), adding a 2.0L bi-turbo diesel to the existing diesel powertrain lineup, as well as introducing a 10-speed automatic transmission and more up-to-date safety features, as well as cabin tech. This included autonomous emergency braking, collision warning, and terrain management on some variants, to name a few.
In addition, the Ranger was available in multiple trims and special editions. Most common ones you’ll find on the market will include the entry-level Ranger XL and XLS, the mid-spec Ranger XLT, up to the top-line Ranger Wildtrak and FX4. The PXIII notably gained its own high-performance ‘Raptor’ variant, taking cues from its larger F-150 cousin in America, but for this review, we’re focusing on the standard Ranger models.
After all these years since our initial review, would we still recommend a Ford Ranger if you’re in the market for a secondhand ute? Find out below.
What goes wrong?
Exterior Issues:
As these have now aged considerably, more issues affecting the body are being reported. Look out for fade or surface wear on common areas, like the window trims/seals, as well as any factory accessories like the external snorkels.
Check the physical condition, especially the underbody for any signs of damage or abuse, and be extra thorough if the Ranger you’re looking at has been lifted or modified, especially for use off-road.
Corrosion is also something to look out for – check the undercarriage, underneath the wheel arches, suspension mounts, as well as inside the engine bay, along the tailgate, and body panels for any corrosion or rust bubbles. Pay close attention to the underbody as even Fords that have been lightly used off-road – through sandy terrain, through a muddy trail, or even near a body of water, if they haven’t been cleaned properly, this can lead to corrosion. Finding light surface rust isn’t uncommon on these utes, but if there is structural rust,just walk away.
If you’re based in a colder climate like the UK or Europe, be mindful that early examples of Rangers were known for easily forming rust just from regular use, to the point some had their entire chassis replaced or repaired under warranty.
Door lock mechanisms can also experience intermittent issues, but this isn’t difficult or expensive to fix.
Electrical issues can also be a common issue and can affect a wide range of equipment, especially when they’re exposed to water, rain, or just even the smallest amount of moisture. Items such as the parking sensors integrated into the bullbars going off randomly, faulty tire pressure monitors, adaptive cruise control settings, and the trailer connection electronics can present issues. Usually to resolve these gremlins, all it takes is a power cycle (turn the vehicle on and off again).
One electrically-powered item that can be a serious issue is the wiring loom that runs across the front of the engine – it can wear through the timing cover easily and cause any number of electrical issues/short circuits from there. Owners recommend adding some protection over it, such as a rubber hose or any good insulating material.
The PXI-generation Rangers’ factory headlights at low and high beam settings have been widely complained about – many owners recommend changing them for aftermarket units or better quality light bulbs. The later PXII and PXIII models added brighter headlights, including LED bulbs that don’t draw as many complaints.
These Rangers had plenty of aftermarket support and plenty on the used market will likely feature modifications to some extent, from aftermarket wheels/tires to suspension lift kits and any number of off-road/overlanding accessories. If you are going for a modified
Exterior Issues:
As these have now aged considerably, more issues affecting the body are being reported. Look out for fade or surface wear on common areas, like the window trims/seals, as well as any factory accessories like the external snorkels.
Check the physical condition, especially the underbody for any signs of damage or abuse, and be extra thorough if the Ranger you’re looking at has been lifted or modified, especially for use off-road.
Corrosion is also something to look out for – check the undercarriage, underneath the wheel arches, suspension mounts, as well as inside the engine bay, along the tailgate, and body panels for any corrosion or rust bubbles. Pay close attention to the underbody as even Fords that have been lightly used off-road – through sandy terrain, through a muddy trail, or even near a body of water, if they haven’t been cleaned properly, this can lead to corrosion. Finding light surface rust isn’t uncommon on these utes, but if there is structural rust,just walk away.
If you’re based in a colder climate like the UK or Europe, be mindful that early examples of Rangers were known for easily forming rust just from regular use, to the point some had their entire chassis replaced or repaired under warranty.
Door lock mechanisms can also experience intermittent issues, but this isn’t difficult or expensive to fix.
Electrical issues can also be a common issue and can affect a wide range of equipment, especially when they’re exposed to water, rain, or just even the smallest amount of moisture. Items such as the parking sensors integrated into the bullbars going off randomly, faulty tire pressure monitors, adaptive cruise control settings, and the trailer connection electronics can present issues. Usually to resolve these gremlins, all it takes is a power cycle (turn the vehicle on and off again).
One electrically-powered item that can be a serious issue is the wiring loom that runs across the front of the engine – it can wear through the timing cover easily and cause any number of electrical issues/short circuits from there. Owners recommend adding some protection over it, such as a rubber hose or any good insulating material.
The PXI-generation Rangers’ factory headlights at low and high beam settings have been widely complained about – many owners recommend changing them for aftermarket units or better quality light bulbs. The later PXII and PXIII models added brighter headlights, including LED bulbs that don’t draw as many complaints.
These Rangers had plenty of aftermarket support and plenty on the used market will likely feature modifications to some extent, from aftermarket wheels/tires to suspension lift kits and any number of off-road/overlanding accessories. If you are going for a modified example, ensure they are quality parts and have been installed correctly, but especially in Australia – that they are legal and compliant. It’s all too common that those who buy a modified ute/4×4 attempt to re-register them, only to find out the modifications haven’t been approved and they need to put in time/money to make them roadworthy.
If the Ranger you’re viewing has had a history of towing loads or being used as a tow vehicle, check for wear on the tow ball/hitch and marks on the chassis where the bump stops have been hit. Ask if a transmission cooler has been fitted and as much about the towing history, if possible.
Interior Issues:
The build quality of the interior greatly improved with the PXII and PXIII generations of the Ranger, but they are still susceptible to regular wear and are also beginning to report several issues as they age and experience more use.
Common areas owners report include the chrome on the door handles, plastic seat housings, and ‘leather’ seat upholstery that can show signs of wear or cracking. We even heard owners complain that when items such as the ‘leather’ seat upholstery were replaced under warranty, they experienced ‘cracking’ yet again.
Sporadic electrical issues or equipment failure can also creep in . Random warning lights appearing on the dashboard, central locking, power windows, the rear view camera, heated seat functions and climate control settings are some examples. Make sure they work, especially on the higher-spec models.
A common issue reported by Ford Ranger owners is the air conditioning blend door actuators wearing out – a telltale sign is if you hear odd clunking noises underneath the dashboard. Replacement units are inexpensive, but attempting to access the middle and front passenger side ones can be difficult. If you end up paying someone to do this job, expect it to cost a lot in labour..
The location of the 4×4 switch is also prone to getting liquids spilled on it, thanks to its proximity to the cup holders – if it needs fixing it’s not difficult to do so.
They all came with some variation of Ford’s SYNC infotainment system. If you are expecting Apple CarPlay/Android Auto Connectivity, SYNC 1 is far too old to support it, SYNC 2 can be retrofitted to include this feature, but SYNC 3 is the only one that has this feature as standard. Even so, some owners have experienced the Bluetooth audio and phone connectivity being inconsistent or dropping off entirely, to the UIs freezing/rebooting without warning, or the touchscreen interfaces just not responding to any inputs.
Some owners have abandoned SYNC altogether and gone for aftermarket headunits to greatly improve the in-car entertainment support and functionality, which can also add better features like a higher resolution reversing camera, upgraded speakers, and more.
Mechanical issues:
Engines:
The 2.5L four-cylinder petrol is from Ford’s Duratec family and has proven to be reliable, if its well maintained and to schedule.
More issues to look out for concern the turbodiesel units, which a large percentage of PX Rangers will be equipped with.
The 2.2L turbodiesel four-cylinder is closely related to the 3.2L four-cylinder, being a modular engine in the Ford family. They share a number of issues, but as this engine was primarily used in lower-spec Rangers and there’s not a lot of them on the road, combined with not likely being used in the same strenuous environments as their bigger counterparts, they tend to be more reliable.
The 3.2L inline five-cylinder turbodiesel though, has quite a few things to keep an eye out for. EGR coolers are a crucial item to keep an eye on – plenty of these have experienced overheating or engine failure because of leaking EGR coolers. The EGR valve itself can also be problematic, but should not lead to serious engine failure.
When performing regular maintenance, ensure oil changes are done quickly without any delay. Technicians we spoke to advise that they need to be drained and refilled within ten minutes, or else the variable displacement oil pump won’t be primed and ready, resulting in no oil pressure.
Keep an eye out for thermostat issues – if it sticks open it can run too cold, or lead to overheating if stuck shut, both of which can seriously damage the engine.
Viscous fan hubs can also stop functioning normally.
The high-pressure fuel pumps are known to be problematic – the best solution is to do regular fuel filter changes.
Turbochargers can fail or experience issues – most commonly being worn bearings or seal failures. In addition, the intercooler pipes can split, usually the upper pipe sections. Telltale signs that these need looking at are whistling noises when they’re under load, or under heavy acceleration.
The cam and crank position sensors can also fail, causing problems when this engine attempts to crank or start.
As mentioned with electrical issues, the wiring loom at the front of the engine runs at the top of the timing cover. Get it protected if you can, as leaving it exposed can cause problems.
The 2.0L four-cylinder Bi-turbo diesel – it pushes out good performance numbers, but its more complex in design. Above all, it uses a wet belt instead of a timing chain. This has been a very troublesome component: the belt can deteriorate and collect fragments that clog up the strainer, causing a loss of oil pressure. There are also instances where the belt can break entirely, leading to more internal engine damage or even destroying the engine altogether.
There have been examples equipped with the Bi-turbo diesel that have failed around 100,000km. As such, if you do end up owning one of these or looking at one, ensure to change the engine oil at least every 10,000km, or to be even safer, every 7,500km.
Ford’s recommended schedule for servicing the belt is every 250,000km/10 years, but reality is that it won’t last that long. Depending on your local market, check with available resources for the revised timing belt service schedules.
In addition, the Bi-turbo diesel engines can also experience EGR cooler issues, failing intercooler pipes, as well as viscous fan hubs and thermostats – all of which can lead to major overheating events. The standard temperature gauge we’re told doesn’t relay when engine temperatures may be an issue – we would recommend fitting an aftermarket temperature gauge for peace of mind.
Transmissions:
The six-speed automatic transmission has many issues to look out for, largely coming from the valve body and internal sensor faults. The torque converter itself can suffer from internal problems – in the worst cases, the flex plate can just sheer off, leaving you unable to select any gear.
Transmission overheating can be another problem – it’s recommended to upgrade the cooler, or add a more robust transmission cooler, but note they can have internal fluid leaks as well. Another aftermarket option worth looking into is a thermal bypass valve kit, which can better regulate transmission temperatures.
The ten-speed automatic transmission is one of the newer units, added towards the final years of the PX Ranger and is slightly better in terms of reliability. They can still experience the same torque converter and valve body issues as their six-speed counterparts, on top of oil pump and CDF (drive clutch drum assembly) problems.
The automatic transmissions, especially the ten-speed units, have reports of vibrating/stuttering at concerning levels or harsh gear changes. These aren’t on the same level as Ford models equipped with the brand’s infamous ‘Powershift’ dual-clutch automatic, but is worth looking out for to confirm the transmission is in good health.
Ford’s recommended service interval for these transmissions is every 240,000km/10 years, which is completely unrealistic. If you want to maximise the life of these, we recommend servicing every 40,000km/few years, especially if you’re putting excessive strain on the powertrain through hard use off-road or towing.
As a reminder, these automatics do need to be looked at, its not as straightforward as a software update or in/out service – to do any number of repairs, the whole transmission needs to come out, and that can cost a lot in labour alone.
Drivetrain:
Pay attention to any abnormal squeaks, knocking, or rattling noises when going over speed bumps or imperfections in the road. These could indicate suspension components are on their way out, or a poorly installed lift kit.
Uneven ride height or rear ends not feeling aligned could indicate it’s been overloaded too often, putting excessive wear on the suspension components. To resolve, it might require either a wheel alignment or new suspension components.
As mentioned, these are quite common platforms to modify. Any non-original equipment or changes, especially to how the Ranger drives, should be checked to ensure they have been installed correctly and don’t interfere with the regular functionality, on- or off-road.
Exterior Issues:
As these have now aged considerably, more issues affecting the body are being reported. Look out for fade or surface wear on common areas, like the window trims/seals, as well as any factory accessories like the external snorkels.
Check the physical condition, especially the underbody for any signs of damage or abuse, and be extra thorough if the Ranger you’re looking at has been lifted or modified, especially for use off-road.
Corrosion is also something to look out for – check the undercarriage, underneath the wheel arches, suspension mounts, as well as inside the engine bay, along the tailgate, and body panels for any corrosion or rust bubbles. Pay close attention to the underbody as even Fords that have been lightly used off-road – through sandy terrain, through a muddy trail, or even near a body of water, if they haven’t been cleaned properly, this can lead to corrosion. Finding light surface rust isn’t uncommon on these utes, but if there is structural rust,just walk away.
If you’re based in a colder climate like the UK or Europe, be mindful that early examples of Rangers were known for easily forming rust just from regular use, to the point some had their entire chassis replaced or repaired under warranty.
Door lock mechanisms can also experience intermittent issues, but this isn’t difficult or expensive to fix.
Electrical issues can also be a common issue and can affect a wide range of equipment, especially when they’re exposed to water, rain, or just even the smallest amount of moisture. Items such as the parking sensors integrated into the bullbars going off randomly, faulty tire pressure monitors, adaptive cruise control settings, and the trailer connection electronics can present issues. Usually to resolve these gremlins, all it takes is a power cycle (turn the vehicle on and off again).
One electrically-powered item that can be a serious issue is the wiring loom that runs across the front of the engine – it can wear through the timing cover easily and cause any number of electrical issues/short circuits from there. Owners recommend adding some protection over it, such as a rubber hose or any good insulating material.
The PXI-generation Rangers’ factory headlights at low and high beam settings have been widely complained about – many owners recommend changing them for aftermarket units or better quality light bulbs. The later PXII and PXIII models added brighter headlights, including LED bulbs that don’t draw as many complaints.
These Rangers had plenty of aftermarket support and plenty on the used market will likely feature modifications to some extent, from aftermarket wheels/tires to suspension lift kits and any number of off-road/overlanding accessories. If you are going for a modified example, ensure they are quality parts and have been installed correctly, but especially in Australia – that they are legal and compliant. It’s all too common that those who buy a modified ute/4×4 attempt to re-register them, only to find out the modifications haven’t been approved and they need to put in time/money to make them roadworthy.
If the Ranger you’re viewing has had a history of towing loads or being used as a tow vehicle, check for wear on the tow ball/hitch and marks on the chassis where the bump stops have been hit. Ask if a transmission cooler has been fitted and as much about the towing history, if possible.
Interior Issues:
The build quality of the interior greatly improved with the PXII and PXIII generations of the Ranger, but they are still susceptible to regular wear and are also beginning to report several issues as they age and experience more use.
Common areas owners report include the chrome on the door handles, plastic seat housings, and ‘leather’ seat upholstery that can show signs of wear or cracking. We even heard owners complain that when items such as the ‘leather’ seat upholstery were replaced under warranty, they experienced ‘cracking’ yet again.
Sporadic electrical issues or equipment failure can also creep in . Random warning lights appearing on the dashboard, central locking, power windows, the rear view camera, heated seat functions and climate control settings are some examples. Make sure they work, especially on the higher-spec models.
A common issue reported by Ford Ranger owners is the air conditioning blend door actuators wearing out – a telltale sign is if you hear odd clunking noises underneath the dashboard. Replacement units are inexpensive, but attempting to access the middle and front passenger side ones can be difficult. If you end up paying someone to do this job, expect it to cost a lot in labour..
The location of the 4×4 switch is also prone to getting liquids spilled on it, thanks to its proximity to the cup holders – if it needs fixing it’s not difficult to do so.
They all came with some variation of Ford’s SYNC infotainment system. If you are expecting Apple CarPlay/Android Auto Connectivity, SYNC 1 is far too old to support it, SYNC 2 can be retrofitted to include this feature, but SYNC 3 is the only one that has this feature as standard. Even so, some owners have experienced the Bluetooth audio and phone connectivity being inconsistent or dropping off entirely, to the UIs freezing/rebooting without warning, or the touchscreen interfaces just not responding to any inputs.
Some owners have abandoned SYNC altogether and gone for aftermarket headunits to greatly improve the in-car entertainment support and functionality, which can also add better features like a higher resolution reversing camera, upgraded speakers, and more.
Mechanical issues:
Engines:
The 2.5L four-cylinder petrol is from Ford’s Duratec family and has proven to be reliable, if its well maintained and to schedule.
More issues to look out for concern the turbodiesel units, which a large percentage of PX Rangers will be equipped with.
The 2.2L turbodiesel four-cylinder is closely related to the 3.2L four-cylinder, being a modular engine in the Ford family. They share a number of issues, but as this engine was primarily used in lower-spec Rangers and there’s not a lot of them on the road, combined with not likely being used in the same strenuous environments as their bigger counterparts, they tend to be more reliable.
The 3.2L inline five-cylinder turbodiesel though, has quite a few things to keep an eye out for. EGR coolers are a crucial item to keep an eye on – plenty of these have experienced overheating or engine failure because of leaking EGR coolers. The EGR valve itself can also be problematic, but should not lead to serious engine failure.
When performing regular maintenance, ensure oil changes are done quickly without any delay. Technicians we spoke to advise that they need to be drained and refilled within ten minutes, or else the variable displacement oil pump won’t be primed and ready, resulting in no oil pressure.
Keep an eye out for thermostat issues – if it sticks open it can run too cold, or lead to overheating if stuck shut, both of which can seriously damage the engine.
Viscous fan hubs can also stop functioning normally.
The high-pressure fuel pumps are known to be problematic – the best solution is to do regular fuel filter changes.
Turbochargers can fail or experience issues – most commonly being worn bearings or seal failures. In addition, the intercooler pipes can split, usually the upper pipe sections. Telltale signs that these need looking at are whistling noises when they’re under load, or under heavy acceleration.
The cam and crank position sensors can also fail, causing problems when this engine attempts to crank or start.
As mentioned with electrical issues, the wiring loom at the front of the engine runs at the top of the timing cover. Get it protected if you can, as leaving it exposed can cause problems.
The 2.0L four-cylinder Bi-turbo diesel – it pushes out good performance numbers, but its more complex in design. Above all, it uses a wet belt instead of a timing chain. This has been a very troublesome component: the belt can deteriorate and collect fragments that clog up the strainer, causing a loss of oil pressure. There are also instances where the belt can break entirely, leading to more internal engine damage or even destroying the engine altogether.
There have been examples equipped with the Bi-turbo diesel that have failed around 100,000km. As such, if you do end up owning one of these or looking at one, ensure to change the engine oil at least every 10,000km, or to be even safer, every 7,500km.
Ford’s recommended schedule for servicing the belt is every 250,000km/10 years, but reality is that it won’t last that long. Depending on your local market, check with available resources for the revised timing belt service schedules.
In addition, the Bi-turbo diesel engines can also experience EGR cooler issues, failing intercooler pipes, as well as viscous fan hubs and thermostats – all of which can lead to major overheating events. The standard temperature gauge we’re told doesn’t relay when engine temperatures may be an issue – we would recommend fitting an aftermarket temperature gauge for peace of mind.
Transmissions:
The six-speed automatic transmission has many issues to look out for, largely coming from the valve body and internal sensor faults. The torque converter itself can suffer from internal problems – in the worst cases, the flex plate can just sheer off, leaving you unable to select any gear.
Transmission overheating can be another problem – it’s recommended to upgrade the cooler, or add a more robust transmission cooler, but note they can have internal fluid leaks as well. Another aftermarket option worth looking into is a thermal bypass valve kit, which can better regulate transmission temperatures.
The ten-speed automatic transmission is one of the newer units, added towards the final years of the PX Ranger and is slightly better in terms of reliability. They can still experience the same torque converter and valve body issues as their six-speed counterparts, on top of oil pump and CDF (drive clutch drum assembly) problems.
The automatic transmissions, especially the ten-speed units, have reports of vibrating/stuttering at concerning levels or harsh gear changes. These aren’t on the same level as Ford models equipped with the brand’s infamous ‘Powershift’ dual-clutch automatic, but is worth looking out for to confirm the transmission is in good health.
Ford’s recommended service interval for these transmissions is every 240,000km/10 years, which is completely unrealistic. If you want to maximise the life of these, we recommend servicing every 40,000km/few years, especially if you’re putting excessive strain on the powertrain through hard use off-road or towing.
As a reminder, these automatics do need to be looked at, its not as straightforward as a software update or in/out service – to do any number of repairs, the whole transmission needs to come out, and that can cost a lot in labour alone.
Drivetrain:
Pay attention to any abnormal squeaks, knocking, or rattling noises when going over speed bumps or imperfections in the road. These could indicate suspension components are on their way out, or a poorly installed lift kit.
Uneven ride height or rear ends not feeling aligned could indicate it’s been overloaded too often, putting excessive wear on the suspension components. To resolve, it might require either a wheel alignment or new suspension components.
As mentioned, these are quite common platforms to modify. Any non-original equipment or changes, especially to how the Ranger drives, should be checked to ensure they have been installed correctly and don’t interfere with the regular functionality, on- or off-road.
Should you buy one?
In our previous review of the Ford Ranger, we recommended it as a dual-cab ute to consider, based on its then good reliability record, as well as alluring value for money that consisted of ‘better on-road driving dynamics, arguably superior off-road ability, equivalent safety tech, infotainment and practicality.’ to its closest ute rival at the time, the Toyota Hilux.
Now, though, we wouldn’t be quick to jump to the same conclusion. The PX Ranger has now proven to be as popular as its Japanese rival, even down to suffering its own variant of ‘Toyota tax’ that has seen its prices rise dramatically: helpful if you’re selling, but not if you’re in the market to buy one.
Prices start at $4,000 for a very abused (wrecked) example, up to $90,000 for a high-performance Raptor, but the majority of buyers interested in the PXII/PXIII XLTs and Wildtrak models, range between $15,000 to 90,000.
In addition, as plenty of dashcam videos or observations on the road here in Australia, Ford Rangers have gained a reputation for, lack of a better term, ‘dangerous and eccentric drivers’. The same people will likely have thrashed their Rangers with little care for maintenance or servicing.
Which is a shame, because if you look over their reputation, the Ford Ranger has a lot going for it. We feel, as well as multiple owners, this continues to be one of the best driving utes available on the market, it has a comfortable and refined ride, and especially with the
In our previous review of the Ford Ranger, we recommended it as a dual-cab ute to consider, based on its then good reliability record, as well as alluring value for money that consisted of ‘better on-road driving dynamics, arguably superior off-road ability, equivalent safety tech, infotainment and practicality.’ to its closest ute rival at the time, the Toyota Hilux.
Now, though, we wouldn’t be quick to jump to the same conclusion. The PX Ranger has now proven to be as popular as its Japanese rival, even down to suffering its own variant of ‘Toyota tax’ that has seen its prices rise dramatically: helpful if you’re selling, but not if you’re in the market to buy one.
Prices start at $4,000 for a very abused (wrecked) example, up to $90,000 for a high-performance Raptor, but the majority of buyers interested in the PXII/PXIII XLTs and Wildtrak models, range between $15,000 to 90,000.
In addition, as plenty of dashcam videos or observations on the road here in Australia, Ford Rangers have gained a reputation for, lack of a better term, ‘dangerous and eccentric drivers’. The same people will likely have thrashed their Rangers with little care for maintenance or servicing.
Which is a shame, because if you look over their reputation, the Ford Ranger has a lot going for it. We feel, as well as multiple owners, this continues to be one of the best driving utes available on the market, it has a comfortable and refined ride, and especially with the later models that introduced electric power-assisted steering, they’re very easy to drive. The Ranger’s four-pot diesel engines also prove potent enough to rival bigger V8 engines found in Toyotas, and offer great off-road ability in their standard form.
Plus, unlimited customisation possibilities thanks to strong aftermarket support that can improve the running gear, functionality, cabin tech, and aesthetics – allowing you to make your Ranger the perfect workhorse or overlander.
In addition, compared to other utes that were sold alongside, the Ranger is viewed as the one most suited to the Australian market, as it was designed, tested, and engineered to our conditions. Some may also argue the Ford badge is worth the premium, especially in markets like Australia, where the culture of utes and said brand are strongly associated, but it’s hard to ignore that the market is awash with rival utes/trucks that offer the same qualities we praised the Ranger for, but at a more affordable price/entry point.
We’re talking about more options from Japanese brands like the Isuzu D-Max, Mitsubishi Triton, Nissan Navara, and Mazda BT-50 (which it also shared a platform and other mechanical components thanks to Ford and Mazda’s relationship at the time), to European offerings that have also entered, like the Volkswagen Amarok and (short-lived) Mercedes-Benz X-Class.
If you are shopping for a Ford Ranger, our advice now is to be patient and don’t limit yourself to just a few – expand and shop for the best example your budget will allow and be sure to get a thorough pre-purchase inspection done so you know its true condition and health.
Ideally, the best PX Ranger will be one with a spotless history, owned by a sensible owner, and with a comprehensive service record. Avoid those that have clearly been used as a fleet vehicle, by a handful of apprentices with little due care or are questionably modified.
As we say, every ute you will find in this segment will have its share of both ups and downs – the PX Ranger is no exception.
Should you buy one?
In our previous review of the Ford Ranger, we recommended it as a dual-cab ute to consider, based on its then good reliability record, as well as alluring value for money that consisted of ‘better on-road driving dynamics, arguably superior off-road ability, equivalent safety tech, infotainment and practicality.’ to its closest ute rival at the time, the Toyota Hilux.
Now, though, we wouldn’t be quick to jump to the same conclusion. The PX Ranger has now proven to be as popular as its Japanese rival, even down to suffering its own variant of ‘Toyota tax’ that has seen its prices rise dramatically: helpful if you’re selling, but not if you’re in the market to buy one.
Prices start at $4,000 for a very abused (wrecked) example, up to $90,000 for a high-performance Raptor, but the majority of buyers interested in the PXII/PXIII XLTs and Wildtrak models, range between $15,000 to 90,000.
In addition, as plenty of dashcam videos or observations on the road here in Australia, Ford Rangers have gained a reputation for, lack of a better term, ‘dangerous and eccentric drivers’. The same people will likely have thrashed their Rangers with little care for maintenance or servicing.
Which is a shame, because if you look over their reputation, the Ford Ranger has a lot going for it. We feel, as well as multiple owners, this continues to be one of the best driving utes available on the market, it has a comfortable and refined ride, and especially with the later models that introduced electric power-assisted steering, they’re very easy to drive. The Ranger’s four-pot diesel engines also prove potent enough to rival bigger V8 engines found in Toyotas, and offer great off-road ability in their standard form.
Plus, unlimited customisation possibilities thanks to strong aftermarket support that can improve the running gear, functionality, cabin tech, and aesthetics – allowing you to make your Ranger the perfect workhorse or overlander.
In addition, compared to other utes that were sold alongside, the Ranger is viewed as the one most suited to the Australian market, as it was designed, tested, and engineered to our conditions. Some may also argue the Ford badge is worth the premium, especially in markets like Australia, where the culture of utes and said brand are strongly associated, but it’s hard to ignore that the market is awash with rival utes/trucks that offer the same qualities we praised the Ranger for, but at a more affordable price/entry point.
We’re talking about more options from Japanese brands like the Isuzu D-Max, Mitsubishi Triton, Nissan Navara, and Mazda BT-50 (which it also shared a platform and other mechanical components thanks to Ford and Mazda’s relationship at the time), to European offerings that have also entered, like the Volkswagen Amarok and (short-lived) Mercedes-Benz X-Class.
If you are shopping for a Ford Ranger, our advice now is to be patient and don’t limit yourself to just a few – expand and shop for the best example your budget will allow and be sure to get a thorough pre-purchase inspection done so you know its true condition and health.
Ideally, the best PX Ranger will be one with a spotless history, owned by a sensible owner, and with a comprehensive service record. Avoid those that have clearly been used as a fleet vehicle, by a handful of apprentices with little due care or are questionably modified.
As we say, every ute you will find in this segment will have its share of both ups and downs – the PX Ranger is no exception.
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Disclaimer
Please note that pricing information is subject to fluctuations in the automotive market.
Information correct as of October 10, 2025.
The advice provided on this website is general advice only. It has been prepared without taking into account your objectives, financial situation or needs. Before acting on this advice, you should consider the appropriateness of the advice, having regard to your own objectives, financial situation and needs.
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