Likes
- Still stacks up as an excellent small car
- The right model can be genuinely fun to drive
- Many small issues are easily sorted with a DIY job
Used Mazda 3 (BK) review
Dislikes
- Diesel models should be avoided at all costs
- Many will have been too abused to consider buying
- Normal age-related issues can take their toll. Check for rust!
Stuff you should know
The BK-generation Mazda 3 arrived in 2003 as the successor to the Mazda Familia/323/Protege. Marketed as the Axela in its native Japan, the Mazda 3 was a then all-new nameplate for the Mazda brand, bringing a fresh image to its compact cars, and its product range for the new millennium – evident by the tagline many associate Mazda products with during this period: ‘Zoom-Zoom’.
Here in Australia, like many other markets, we got the first-gen Mazda 3 in two body styles – a four-door sedan and five-door hatchback. The trim lineup kicked off with the Neo and Neo Sport which including air conditioning, remote central locking, and power windows.
The Maxx and Maxx Sport, and the diesel-powered MZR-CD were the mid-spec trims, which brought more luxuries like leather upholstery, alloy wheels, climate control, and some even brought satellite navigation.
Top of the line models included the SP23 and MPS/MPS Sports (MazdaSpeed) with their own line of sports/performance-focused aesthetics and powertrains. The MPS models really are in a class of their own, and for that reason, we’ll focus only on the standard BK-gen Mazda 3 models here.
Engine choices largely consisted of 2.0-litre naturally-aspirated petrol four-cylinder engines, with a four-cylinder diesel also available for a few model years. Buyers could choose between manual and automatic transmissions, and like other models in the compact segment, front-wheel drive was the only option.
A little bit of trivia: enthusiasts may know the Mazda 3 MPS as one of the brand’s first attempts at a hot hatch in the 2000s, but the Mazda 3 SP23 that we got exclusively for the Australian market is a relatively under-the-radar equivalent. It missed out on the full turbocharged four-cylinder that the MPS got, but SP23 models featured a larger 2.3L naturally-aspirated four-cylinder (compared to the 2.0L unit lower-spec models received), upgraded brakes, and came standard with a five-speed manual – subtle ingredients for a more ‘sporty’ variant.
The BK-generation experienced one midlife update during its production run – pre-update cars (BKI/Series 1) were produced from 2004 to 2006, while post-update cars (BKII/Series 2) were produced from 2006 to 2009. Post-update Mazda 3s can easily be distinguished by slightly different headlights, as well as updated front grille, alloy wheel designs, and dashboard designs.
Regarding safety, pre-update Mazda 3s included airbags and anti-lock brakes as standard, while most post-update Mazda 3s added more advanced safety technologies on top, such as electronic stability and traction control.
At its launch, the BK-gen Mazda 3 was not short of rivals. Everything from European hatchbacks like the Volkswagen Golf, BMW 1 Series; to fellow Japanese equivalents like the Toyota Corolla /Corolla Sportivo or Honda Civic; and everything in between, such as the Holden Astra, Peugeot 307, and Hyundai Accent, to name a few. After all, this was a time when compact cars were all the rage, and the market was not saturated with crossovers like it is now.
Being made by a Japanese manufacturer, the first-generation Mazda 3 should be considered a very reliable car. But you might want to know that this was one of the few models Mazda made in conjunction with Ford – the Mazda 3 even shared a chassis with the Ford Focus and the Volvo S40, with engines co-developed with Ford, and it’s not hard to find comments claiming these were a collaboration that resulted in inferior build quality and poorly constructed engines. But what is the reality of cars like these – are they holding up fine, or is this a Mazda to be avoided if you’re in the market for an affordable runabout?
What goes wrong?
Exterior Issues:
Being a car more than 20 years old, these Mazdas won’t be short of things to look out for on the body. Check around the entire body for corrosion or rust. Common spots to look out for include the window frames, door pillars, under the wheel arches, and under/behind the side door mirrors.
Water ingress, also known as water leaking through the outside, can be a weak spot for these cars. Especially on the sedan models, seals within the rear boot area (boot opening, rear tailights etc.) are known for letting water seep through, which could affect electrical wiring located in these areas, or cause water to collect underneath the spare tire compartment, leading to rust formation. The drain holes for the rear doors can also become blocked and allow water to collect in the interior, leading to rust as well.
Go over all of the body sections and paintwork for any imperfections – it’s not uncommon for surface fade or the paintwork starting to wear thin, in addition to anything made of plastic or rubber showing signs of fatigue. If you manage to find one that has clearly been garaged and well looked after. Interestingly, some owners claim that the paint applied on these cars is far more resilient than the paint used on more recent Mazda products.
Ideally, check for any potential bodywork issues as well as any hidden accident damage, a thorough pre-purchase inspection cannot be recommended enough.
It’s also not uncommon for the headlights or rear tailights to show signs of yellowing or hazy surfaces, and some owners report these can easily collect water and condensation inside. These days, just look up tutorials online on how to resolve these common issues.
The powered window motors can sometimes fail – given they’re made from plastic and not quite resilient, but replacements are cheap to source and they’re easy to install. Other sporadic electrical issues can also appear, mainly caused by relays, but can also be due to degrading solders or plastic components that can affect electrical accessories like the headlights.
Interior Issues:
Even though the BK Mazda 3 is now more than 20 years old, many owners report that even examples with very high kilometres have quite resilient interiors. The plastic panels and trims still feel solid, and on models equipped with leather seats, the upholstery can still hold up great with no sagging or serious tears, as well as the steering wheel’s material.
There are still potential imperfections to look out for. A few owners report small cracks appearing in the dashboard (between the defroster vents and windscreen), especially in warmer climates like Australia. Some of the dashboard sections might also rattle or start
Exterior Issues:
Being a car more than 20 years old, these Mazdas won’t be short of things to look out for on the body. Check around the entire body for corrosion or rust. Common spots to look out for include the window frames, door pillars, under the wheel arches, and under/behind the side door mirrors.
Water ingress, also known as water leaking through the outside, can be a weak spot for these cars. Especially on the sedan models, seals within the rear boot area (boot opening, rear tailights etc.) are known for letting water seep through, which could affect electrical wiring located in these areas, or cause water to collect underneath the spare tire compartment, leading to rust formation. The drain holes for the rear doors can also become blocked and allow water to collect in the interior, leading to rust as well.
Go over all of the body sections and paintwork for any imperfections – it’s not uncommon for surface fade or the paintwork starting to wear thin, in addition to anything made of plastic or rubber showing signs of fatigue. If you manage to find one that has clearly been garaged and well looked after. Interestingly, some owners claim that the paint applied on these cars is far more resilient than the paint used on more recent Mazda products.
Ideally, check for any potential bodywork issues as well as any hidden accident damage, a thorough pre-purchase inspection cannot be recommended enough.
It’s also not uncommon for the headlights or rear tailights to show signs of yellowing or hazy surfaces, and some owners report these can easily collect water and condensation inside. These days, just look up tutorials online on how to resolve these common issues.
The powered window motors can sometimes fail – given they’re made from plastic and not quite resilient, but replacements are cheap to source and they’re easy to install. Other sporadic electrical issues can also appear, mainly caused by relays, but can also be due to degrading solders or plastic components that can affect electrical accessories like the headlights.
Interior Issues:
Even though the BK Mazda 3 is now more than 20 years old, many owners report that even examples with very high kilometres have quite resilient interiors. The plastic panels and trims still feel solid, and on models equipped with leather seats, the upholstery can still hold up great with no sagging or serious tears, as well as the steering wheel’s material.
There are still potential imperfections to look out for. A few owners report small cracks appearing in the dashboard (between the defroster vents and windscreen), especially in warmer climates like Australia. Some of the dashboard sections might also rattle or start to look tired. Also, post-update Mazda 3s from 2008 onwards introduced gloss black plastic trim in the interior, and it can easily be scratched.
Check that anything electrical works normally – there can be intermittent issues affecting things like power windows, steering wheel controls, sunroof (if equipped), central locking, air conditioning/heater controls; as well as other functions like the switchgear and cabin buttons/switches/knobs. We heard that replacement interior parts are becoming harder to find, especially on the older pre-update models. Those who own post-update models also told us of having difficulties finding parts specific to their cars, such as cruise control modules.
Also, check the odometers haven’t been tampered with and are displaying accurate kilometres – as expected of cars this old and available for bargain prices, they’re prime candidates for cluster swaps and odometer rollbacks.
The factory infotainment system offers little else beyond a CD player and AM/FM radio. You may think that, as its integrated into the dashboard it cannot be replaced, but there are plenty of aftermarket kits that allow you to replace this ancient piece of tech with a more modern setup/head unit – meaning you can add features like Apple CarPlay, Android Auto, Bluetooth hands-free/audio, and a parking camera. (And yes, satellite navigation was available on the higher-spec trims, but who uses systems this old nowadays?)
We recommend checking with Mazda owners’ groups and forums for any solutions, as many of these small or common issues can easily be resolved with some DIY. Plus, they are a valuable resource for anyone who currently owns or is looking to own one in the future.
Mechanical issues:
Engines:
The BK-generation Mazda 3 was only available with four-cylinder engines – but while they have Japanese engineering, they’re not entirely bulletproof, especially as time has passed and these have mostly accumulated a lot of use up to now.
The 2.0-litre ‘MZR’ L-Series petrol four-cylinder has reported EGR valve and inlet manifold problems – EGR stands for exhaust gas recirculation valve, and it can sometimes burn through the plastic inlet manifold itself. We’ve also heard of oil leaks from the valve covers, and being the age it is, the engine mounts will likely need replacing at some point. Frequent vibrations from the engine bay or at idle are a telltale sign.
The slightly bigger 2.3-litre ‘MZR’ L-Series four-cylinder is considered not as solidly built as the 2.0-litre counterpart. It pushes out good performance figures, but these report more concerning issues, such as self-destructing cam phasers to timing chain complications. They also report more frequent cases of excessive oil consumption and oil leaks, which will likely increase as they get older. Very poorly maintained or neglected ones can have their bottom-end bearings fail altogether, and there’s no point of return after that – what remains of the car (or is worth salvaging from) is best sent to the junkyard.
The 2.0-litre ‘MZR-CD’ four-cylinder turbodiesel is quite frugal, but this engine is a good example of where Mazda cut considerable corners, leading some to label these as one of the worst diesel powertrains ever made. As demonstrated by their reported sales in the Australian market, only 3% of the BK-gen Mazda 3s featured the diesel. Common issues these can suffer from include excessive oil consumption, high-pressure fuel pump and injectors issues, and turbochargers giving up altogether. As far as fuel-efficient powertrains go, sadly, these are not ones to be recommended.
Transmissions:
When it comes to their transmissions, these don’t have any serious mechanical concerns – the automatic being a standard torque converter unit and not something complex like a dual clutch or continuously variable automatic transmission (CVT). Provided it’s been routinely serviced with regular transmission fluid replacements, the transmissions should be solid. Though with use and age, factor in the potential for a replacement transmission – whether you can find a good one when the time comes will vary. Also, during a test drive, check that the Tiptronic or manual shifting function works as it should.
The manual transmissions are also quite durable, with the rare occasion that they could experience difficulties selecting reverse or first gear, or a sloppier shift feel. Chances are, the shifting bushes need replacement. But as with any manual gearbox in a car this old, provided it hasn’t been thrashed hard by inexperienced or wannabe racers, these should still be holding up fine.
Drivetrain:
With their age and hard use these cars have likely experienced, suspension components – anything from struts to bushes and springs, or wheel bearings will likely need replacing from 100,000 kms and beyond. It’s also common for front and rear sway bar link pins to wear, with rattling from the suspension components being a clear sign they need replacement.
Thanks to their factory setup providing a more engaging driving experience (living up to the ‘‘Zoom-Zoom’ spirit), both pre- and post-update BK-gen Mazda 3s are known for excessive tire wear – their aggressive camber setup as standard for the rear wheels reportedly leads them to consume their rear tires at the same rate as their front tires.
But on the upside, this gives the opportunity to install any number of aftermarket parts to improve the handling further, and these will likely last longer than OEM units.
Exterior Issues:
Being a car more than 20 years old, these Mazdas won’t be short of things to look out for on the body. Check around the entire body for corrosion or rust. Common spots to look out for include the window frames, door pillars, under the wheel arches, and under/behind the side door mirrors.
Water ingress, also known as water leaking through the outside, can be a weak spot for these cars. Especially on the sedan models, seals within the rear boot area (boot opening, rear tailights etc.) are known for letting water seep through, which could affect electrical wiring located in these areas, or cause water to collect underneath the spare tire compartment, leading to rust formation. The drain holes for the rear doors can also become blocked and allow water to collect in the interior, leading to rust as well.
Go over all of the body sections and paintwork for any imperfections – it’s not uncommon for surface fade or the paintwork starting to wear thin, in addition to anything made of plastic or rubber showing signs of fatigue. If you manage to find one that has clearly been garaged and well looked after. Interestingly, some owners claim that the paint applied on these cars is far more resilient than the paint used on more recent Mazda products.
Ideally, check for any potential bodywork issues as well as any hidden accident damage, a thorough pre-purchase inspection cannot be recommended enough.
It’s also not uncommon for the headlights or rear tailights to show signs of yellowing or hazy surfaces, and some owners report these can easily collect water and condensation inside. These days, just look up tutorials online on how to resolve these common issues.
The powered window motors can sometimes fail – given they’re made from plastic and not quite resilient, but replacements are cheap to source and they’re easy to install. Other sporadic electrical issues can also appear, mainly caused by relays, but can also be due to degrading solders or plastic components that can affect electrical accessories like the headlights.
Interior Issues:
Even though the BK Mazda 3 is now more than 20 years old, many owners report that even examples with very high kilometres have quite resilient interiors. The plastic panels and trims still feel solid, and on models equipped with leather seats, the upholstery can still hold up great with no sagging or serious tears, as well as the steering wheel’s material.
There are still potential imperfections to look out for. A few owners report small cracks appearing in the dashboard (between the defroster vents and windscreen), especially in warmer climates like Australia. Some of the dashboard sections might also rattle or start to look tired. Also, post-update Mazda 3s from 2008 onwards introduced gloss black plastic trim in the interior, and it can easily be scratched.
Check that anything electrical works normally – there can be intermittent issues affecting things like power windows, steering wheel controls, sunroof (if equipped), central locking, air conditioning/heater controls; as well as other functions like the switchgear and cabin buttons/switches/knobs. We heard that replacement interior parts are becoming harder to find, especially on the older pre-update models. Those who own post-update models also told us of having difficulties finding parts specific to their cars, such as cruise control modules.
Also, check the odometers haven’t been tampered with and are displaying accurate kilometres – as expected of cars this old and available for bargain prices, they’re prime candidates for cluster swaps and odometer rollbacks.
The factory infotainment system offers little else beyond a CD player and AM/FM radio. You may think that, as its integrated into the dashboard it cannot be replaced, but there are plenty of aftermarket kits that allow you to replace this ancient piece of tech with a more modern setup/head unit – meaning you can add features like Apple CarPlay, Android Auto, Bluetooth hands-free/audio, and a parking camera. (And yes, satellite navigation was available on the higher-spec trims, but who uses systems this old nowadays?)
We recommend checking with Mazda owners’ groups and forums for any solutions, as many of these small or common issues can easily be resolved with some DIY. Plus, they are a valuable resource for anyone who currently owns or is looking to own one in the future.
Mechanical issues:
Engines:
The BK-generation Mazda 3 was only available with four-cylinder engines – but while they have Japanese engineering, they’re not entirely bulletproof, especially as time has passed and these have mostly accumulated a lot of use up to now.
The 2.0-litre ‘MZR’ L-Series petrol four-cylinder has reported EGR valve and inlet manifold problems – EGR stands for exhaust gas recirculation valve, and it can sometimes burn through the plastic inlet manifold itself. We’ve also heard of oil leaks from the valve covers, and being the age it is, the engine mounts will likely need replacing at some point. Frequent vibrations from the engine bay or at idle are a telltale sign.
The slightly bigger 2.3-litre ‘MZR’ L-Series four-cylinder is considered not as solidly built as the 2.0-litre counterpart. It pushes out good performance figures, but these report more concerning issues, such as self-destructing cam phasers to timing chain complications. They also report more frequent cases of excessive oil consumption and oil leaks, which will likely increase as they get older. Very poorly maintained or neglected ones can have their bottom-end bearings fail altogether, and there’s no point of return after that – what remains of the car (or is worth salvaging from) is best sent to the junkyard.
The 2.0-litre ‘MZR-CD’ four-cylinder turbodiesel is quite frugal, but this engine is a good example of where Mazda cut considerable corners, leading some to label these as one of the worst diesel powertrains ever made. As demonstrated by their reported sales in the Australian market, only 3% of the BK-gen Mazda 3s featured the diesel. Common issues these can suffer from include excessive oil consumption, high-pressure fuel pump and injectors issues, and turbochargers giving up altogether. As far as fuel-efficient powertrains go, sadly, these are not ones to be recommended.
Transmissions:
When it comes to their transmissions, these don’t have any serious mechanical concerns – the automatic being a standard torque converter unit and not something complex like a dual clutch or continuously variable automatic transmission (CVT). Provided it’s been routinely serviced with regular transmission fluid replacements, the transmissions should be solid. Though with use and age, factor in the potential for a replacement transmission – whether you can find a good one when the time comes will vary. Also, during a test drive, check that the Tiptronic or manual shifting function works as it should.
The manual transmissions are also quite durable, with the rare occasion that they could experience difficulties selecting reverse or first gear, or a sloppier shift feel. Chances are, the shifting bushes need replacement. But as with any manual gearbox in a car this old, provided it hasn’t been thrashed hard by inexperienced or wannabe racers, these should still be holding up fine.
Drivetrain:
With their age and hard use these cars have likely experienced, suspension components – anything from struts to bushes and springs, or wheel bearings will likely need replacing from 100,000 kms and beyond. It’s also common for front and rear sway bar link pins to wear, with rattling from the suspension components being a clear sign they need replacement.
Thanks to their factory setup providing a more engaging driving experience (living up to the ‘‘Zoom-Zoom’ spirit), both pre- and post-update BK-gen Mazda 3s are known for excessive tire wear – their aggressive camber setup as standard for the rear wheels reportedly leads them to consume their rear tires at the same rate as their front tires.
But on the upside, this gives the opportunity to install any number of aftermarket parts to improve the handling further, and these will likely last longer than OEM units.
Should you buy one?
Mazda always boasted they instilled the ‘soul of a sports car’ in everything they made during the 2000s. It could very well be marketing nonesense, but does this continue to apply to the Mazda 3 after all these years – and how does it translate into being used car purchase?
In short, we would say it’s worth putting one on your list if you’re looking for a very affordable, fun-to-drive runabout – but choose wisely. BK-generation Mazda 3s are currently available at the very cheap and lower price end of the market, but while cheap to purchase, they’ll likely have been heavily used, and cost more than their value alone to continue being roadworthy.
The Korean Kia Cerato and Hyundai i30 are also rivals that offer great value for money, but their engine reliability is a cause of concern, especially in the long run. The Mazda 3’s other Japanese counterparts, such as the Honda Civic, Toyota Corolla, and Mitsubishi Lancer, are also options to consider and are more likely to be found in better condition, even among the oldest examples – but could they offer a driving experience comparable to the Mazda at this price point? As for European equivalents like the Volkswagen Golf? Good luck dealing with their expensive price tags for upkeep and electrical gremlins.
Really, the Ford underpinnings shouldn’t put you off considering a Mazda 3 as a secondhand buy – truth be told, this is still very much a Japanese car underneath. Just look at the
Mazda always boasted they instilled the ‘soul of a sports car’ in everything they made during the 2000s. It could very well be marketing nonesense, but does this continue to apply to the Mazda 3 after all these years – and how does it translate into being used car purchase?
In short, we would say it’s worth putting one on your list if you’re looking for a very affordable, fun-to-drive runabout – but choose wisely. BK-generation Mazda 3s are currently available at the very cheap and lower price end of the market, but while cheap to purchase, they’ll likely have been heavily used, and cost more than their value alone to continue being roadworthy.
The Korean Kia Cerato and Hyundai i30 are also rivals that offer great value for money, but their engine reliability is a cause of concern, especially in the long run. The Mazda 3’s other Japanese counterparts, such as the Honda Civic, Toyota Corolla, and Mitsubishi Lancer, are also options to consider and are more likely to be found in better condition, even among the oldest examples – but could they offer a driving experience comparable to the Mazda at this price point? As for European equivalents like the Volkswagen Golf? Good luck dealing with their expensive price tags for upkeep and electrical gremlins.
Really, the Ford underpinnings shouldn’t put you off considering a Mazda 3 as a secondhand buy – truth be told, this is still very much a Japanese car underneath. Just look at the track record of multiple owners who have reported that their Mazdas have served them, or are continuing to serve them well, for many years. Adding to this, the BK-gen Mazda 3 has plenty of resources on hand to keep it going or make it better, from no shortage of aftermarket support to bring up-to-date cabin amenities/tech, to owners groups that can offer recommendations or solutions for any issues that can arise.
Finding the perfect Mazda 3 of this generation will take some effort and patience – just avoid any that seem like they’re just going to be a headache, unless you’re looking for a cheap banger to get from A to B.
To make it the most viable used car purchase that can serve as a long-term driver, ideally, it will be a post-update model featuring a petrol engine, with a clean history, cherished by previous owners, and attentive levels of maintenance (with the paperwork to back it up).
Should you buy one?
Mazda always boasted they instilled the ‘soul of a sports car’ in everything they made during the 2000s. It could very well be marketing nonesense, but does this continue to apply to the Mazda 3 after all these years – and how does it translate into being used car purchase?
In short, we would say it’s worth putting one on your list if you’re looking for a very affordable, fun-to-drive runabout – but choose wisely. BK-generation Mazda 3s are currently available at the very cheap and lower price end of the market, but while cheap to purchase, they’ll likely have been heavily used, and cost more than their value alone to continue being roadworthy.
The Korean Kia Cerato and Hyundai i30 are also rivals that offer great value for money, but their engine reliability is a cause of concern, especially in the long run. The Mazda 3’s other Japanese counterparts, such as the Honda Civic, Toyota Corolla, and Mitsubishi Lancer, are also options to consider and are more likely to be found in better condition, even among the oldest examples – but could they offer a driving experience comparable to the Mazda at this price point? As for European equivalents like the Volkswagen Golf? Good luck dealing with their expensive price tags for upkeep and electrical gremlins.
Really, the Ford underpinnings shouldn’t put you off considering a Mazda 3 as a secondhand buy – truth be told, this is still very much a Japanese car underneath. Just look at the track record of multiple owners who have reported that their Mazdas have served them, or are continuing to serve them well, for many years. Adding to this, the BK-gen Mazda 3 has plenty of resources on hand to keep it going or make it better, from no shortage of aftermarket support to bring up-to-date cabin amenities/tech, to owners groups that can offer recommendations or solutions for any issues that can arise.
Finding the perfect Mazda 3 of this generation will take some effort and patience – just avoid any that seem like they’re just going to be a headache, unless you’re looking for a cheap banger to get from A to B.
To make it the most viable used car purchase that can serve as a long-term driver, ideally, it will be a post-update model featuring a petrol engine, with a clean history, cherished by previous owners, and attentive levels of maintenance (with the paperwork to back it up).
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Disclaimer
Please note that pricing information is subject to fluctuations in the automotive market.
Information correct as of October 03, 2025.
The advice provided on this website is general advice only. It has been prepared without taking into account your objectives, financial situation or needs. Before acting on this advice, you should consider the appropriateness of the advice, having regard to your own objectives, financial situation and needs.
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